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Thursday, January 27, 2011

Tack Shops - Should You Shop Online or Should You Visit Your Local Tack Shop?

Horseback riding is an age old tradition shared by many people throughout generations. To ride a horse well it often times requires time and dedication to develop the skill that is necessary to participate well. What often times gets lost in translation is the fact that horseback riding is a very intense sport that requires physical skill, mental preparedness, and most importantly great equipment. Without great equipment it is very hard to compete on a high level. The horseback riding supplies involved vary vastly when considering what type of horseback riding you are participating in as well as what time of year you are participating.

These supplies can be purchased at many different local places but often times the best place to find the required equipment is your local tack shop. This is another name for an equestrian supply store. At these tack shops you are able to purchase many different pieces of equipment and training aids. These products typically include riding apparel, horse care products, boots, stable equipment, horse blanks and sheets. More often than not each tack shop is geared towards a specific type of riding (either English or Western-Style, or saddle seat.)

Many tack shops exist throughout local area's to help facilitate the needs of the participants. Horse and Rider supplies is a great example of a local shop that offers these supplies. Horse and Rider is an English riding style store that is located in the Hudson Valley New York area that carries many of the things required. When looking to find your items make sure you look throughout the area and do competitive research on products online as prices can fluctuate from store to store. Online shops have been providing horse supplies for some time at very good rates. The cons of an online store are you often times do not get the local service and guidance of seasoned veterans who work at local shops. Online retailers are often times for the consumer looking for the best price, and know exactly what they are looking for. If you are looking for guidance and information pertaining which horseback riding products fit your needs it is very important to visit your local tack shop to be helped with your purchase.


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How to Use Cribbing Collars for Horses

If you are planning to buy a cribbing collar for your horse, there are few things that you must consider. Apart from selecting the best collar, you should also know how to use it properly. Therefore, this content will give you some information, which you should keep in your mind when planning to install a cribbing collar on your horse. Read the below content for more information:

- Position the shorter strap over the horse's neck and buckle it. However, before you buckle it, make sure you do it when your horses will snug enough for keeping collar in the right place.

- Run the long brow band strap diagonally on the forehead in front of their ears and buckle quite tightly. When you are putting a new thing on a horse, it is very important to see how your horse will react to the collar adjustment. You can make the further adjustments by selecting the hole. However, you should make sure that you will not tight it very hardly.

- Once the installation process is completed, the last thing to do is to check the strap and ensure there is a two fingers gap between your horse's neck and the neck strap.

These are some simple tips that will help you to install a cribbing collar on your horse. In case, if you are not able to do the process by yourself, taking the assistance of an experienced person will be the best option for you. Moreover, these individuals can also help you to buy a perfect collar for your horse.

Getting rid of the cribbing habits in the initial stage is very important, as the chances of horses getting addicted to this habit is more. Once your horse will become addicted, it is quit hard to get them out of it. In case, if the problem is becoming worst, taking the assistance of a veterinary doctor will be the best option for you. You should ensure that you are taking the assistance of an experienced doctor, who will be able to treat the problem easily. In case, if you are not able to find a good doctor in your location, taking the assistance of internet will help you. As most of the well known doctors have uploaded their official sites on the web, a simple research will give you the whole list of doctors located in your area.


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Tips on Properly Feeding and Caring for Your Equine

When it comes to feeding your horse, you would think the horse could naturally take care of itself grazing on grass and weeds. However, for most domestic horses this is not always the case. They are dependent on you helping them meet all their nutritional and dietary needs. Horses which are very active need even more food and energy to stay fit.

Apart from horse supplements, what else do you need to do to make sure your horse stays healthy? First talk to your vet about what you can do. Here is some more information to help give you a better idea of what you should feed your horse:

Obviously, the horse needs hay or grass. They can't live without it. However, did you know there are several different types of hay? My advice is to contact local feed stores and ask what types of feed they carry. You can also allow your horse to graze from pasture now and then but make sure the pasture is safe without any potential poisonous plants it could eat.

Your horse is going to require plenty of water, around six to nine gallons a day. It should be clean and changed frequently. Check to see if the water is clear and it shouldn't have type of foul smell to it. It is important that the horse can get a drink whenever it wants. Also be sure the water is a good temperature. It shouldn't be either too hot or too cold. A horse won't drink icy water, causing it to drink very little and potentially getting sick.

There are several different kinds of grain mixes available today. Most experts recommend reading the ingredients before making a purchase. Most of these grains have tables on the back of the bag which allow you to see how much grain your horse requires. Keep in mind that some grains can be very rich and fed only to active horses. The more mild grains can be fed to all horses.

There should always be mineral and salt blocks in the stall or pasture. These should be kept dry and clean and in a place where the horses can easily get to them. The majority of mineral blocks include salt. I prefer to provide my horses with both a mineral block and a salt block, instead.

When it comes to feeding your horse hay, it must be dry and free of mold, insects, and weeds. I like hay that is slightly greenish. For example, alfalfa has to be bright green, not dried out brown. I also prefer to buy the freshest hay possible.

Ted Stinson is a horse enthusiast who writes various articles on horses and the best methods of caring for a horse. Many of his topics include subjects ranging from the best horse riding boots to use to what type of horse supplements work best.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ted_Stinson


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What You Need To Know About Horse Tack Bridles and Bits

One of the first things a horse person learns is the basic tack used, including horse bridles. Those who ride competitively understand that horse tack bridles are designed specifically for the discipline, and with any extensive riding learn how important the proper bit is.

Depending on what type of discipline one rides in, understanding the basic bits will help the rider make sure he has the right bit for the horse and the rider. Understanding how the bit operates, the amount of pressure, and the importance of a good fit all work together to create the right horse tack bridles and bit combination.

horse bridles and bits are available in hundreds of styles. Some disciplines even employ two bits at the same time to get the desired results. When riding English, there are some basic bits to understand.

LEVERAGE BITS

These bits are used on horse bridles to create leverage. There will be a shank that puts pressure on the mouth of the horse. Often called curb bits, these are most commonly used to set the head. These come in varying ranges of size and pressure, and depending on the horse and practice you will get different results. You might need to experiment to find the right bit for your horse tack bridles.

DIRECT PRESSURE

Snaffle bits and others in this family of bits are a much milder bit, and are used more often in hunt seat and pleasure riding. Some of these will be jointed, while others are solid piece bits. Start with the mildest bit if training a new horse, or find out what was used before you started riding the horse. These bits work with direct pressure, and are often used in combination with leg pressure training.

HYBRID BITS

These bits are becoming more popular as an alternative for double bridles and curb bits. Somewhat milder than most curbs, the hybrid bits combine a snaffle and a curb bit into one simple design. Even these have a wide range of choices, with jointed or solid pieces, different weights and styles. Consider one of these bits if you need a little more control, but don't want to overdo with your horse.

BASIC TIPS

Ultimately, no matter what bit you choose, it is a tool and not a solution. Your horse will still need you to be in control, and how you manage your hands is important. When first riding, you should start with a milder bit until you learn to ride with your leg control. If possible, work with a riding instructor to learn how to control your horse.

Don't assume one bit fits every horse. You may need to try several different types of horse bridles before you find the right horse tack bridles and bits for your horse. The best way to find the right bit is to talk with people that are experienced working with training horses. If your horse is fighting the bit, with head tossing or other behavior issues, try another style.

The right horse tack bridles can help you create the perfect relationship with your horse, as you get the desired performance from your equine partner.


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Use a Cribbing Collar - Eliminate the Cribbing Habits From Your Horse

If you visit your nearest store or research on the World Wide Web, you will come across different types of cribbing collars. However, when you are selecting one, make sure it is of the best quality. A good collar should guarantee to kindly and effectively eliminate the cribbing habits of any breeds, ages. There are also few dealers in the market which will give hundred percent guarantee or money back option. Opting for these dealers is also a good option. However, when you are electing a collar for your horse, make sure it is of the right size. A perfect collar should be very comfortable for the horse and apply pressure when your horse will attempt to crib.

You should also select a cribbing collar that could be worn without any type of discomfort while eating, grazing, drinking or being ridden. In case, if you are not able to select the right collar, taking the assistance of an experienced individual will be a wise option. There are also few sites on the net that will provide you step by step assistance for using a collar. Moreover, they will also teach you how to fix the band on your horse. Once you fix the collar, make sure it will not slide around.

Researching online for a perfect collar:

Doing a small research on the internet for finding a cribbing collar is also a good option. There are many websites on the internet which are solely dedicated for providing the information and products for horses. Moreover, once you enter to these sites, you will be able to get a list of all reputed dealers located in your area. Doing a proper research will help you to find different types of discounts and offers on this product. As you will be able to see a huge collection of collars online, you will be able to select the perfect one for your horse. You will also gain more information on the quality, price, durability of the product you are planning to buy.

As there are many experts who are proving their services online, you will be able to take their assistance. These experts will answer all your queries and questions related to the cribbing problems in horses. Moreover, they will also provide you many simple tips to avid these habits in your horses.


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Stomach Ulcers: A Common Horse Health Problem

A very common drawback for horse health is stomach ulcers and an increase in awareness has resulted in more and more horses gaining from the veterinary care of stomach ulcers.

The signs of stomach ulcers comprise: poor appetite, dull coat, dark faces, poor performance, behavioral problems and general poor health of the horse.

Diagnosis is by endoscopic examination of the stomach. Blood tests can be suggestive however not authoritative. It is often cheaper to treat than diagnose abdomen ulcers.

So, why do stomach ulcers arise and how could we manage them?

What leads to stomach ulcers?

It is a very common horse health problem, they're present in over 50% of horses in work and some studies cite around 95% of horses in work having stomach ulcers.

Horse health management factors that further the risk:

-Stabling, horses in stables are much more liable to get than horses in paddocks with grass to graze.

-Feeding hard feeds, particularly high grain feed.

-Being in work, particularly strenuous work.

-Horses which crib bite or wind suck. These horses typically do not eat well and so have very little gastric components to neutralize stomach acid.

-The employment of some NSAIDs, particularly Bute.

Thus how do we reduce the chances?

-Grazing good grass can improve the horse's health.

Give the horse some lucerne hay approximately half an hour before work, this buffers the abdomen acidity.

-Veterinary medications have Omeprazole or Ranitidine from your vet could be beneficial in treatment and control.

-Some dietary supplements, such as Kohnke's Own Gastro-coat can help coat the stomach thus reducing the chance of development.

If you suspect stomach ulcers to be a problem for your horse's health, talk to your vet, they can provide the most effective guidance and treatment if essential.

Horse Supplies Online specialise in providing thousands of horse products. They have a great stock of horse tack supplies, horse wormers, horse boots, vet supplies, horse supplements and much more all at fantastically discounted prices. They have a great range of vet products for cats and dogs as well! The company stocks all major brands of horse products. So, check out their great prices, fantastic range and awesome service on all major brands of horse supplies, and find out why http://www.horsesuppliesonline.com.au/ are the fastest growing equine supplies business in Australia.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Gibbins


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Wednesday, January 26, 2011

What You Need To Know About Cribbing

Cribbing is an obsessive behaviour that horses pick up due to boredom. Most of the time horses who pick up this habit are those that are kept in a stall most of the time and is left with nothing to do. Cribbing involves firmly biting on an object, bending its neck while the horse pulls on the object and then sucks in air. This action signals the release of endorphins in the brain which give a pleasurable feeling for the horse. Cribbing is sometimes also called 'crib biting' or 'wind sucking'.

The long-term effect of cribbing is the damage that it can cause to a horse's teeth. Also, a cribber or a horse that cribs is noticed to have a thicker neck than usual because the pulling motion when cribbing results to an abnormal development of the muscles in the neck. Although the illness colic is associated with cribbing, experts still could not clearly identify its relationship with cribbing. They are not certain whether the colic pain is the reason why horses crib or the air sucking that results when a horse cribs cause the colic.

Cribbing can be treated. Cribbing is developed because of the lack of activity of the horse. Since this is the underlying cause of cribbing, it is important that one needs to think of activities for his horse. One activity would be allowing the horse to come out of the stables and give it a lot of grazing time. One must also think of new ways of feeding the horse. It is advisable to give the horse some pasture feeding or allow him to feed on grass. If this cannot be possible, give the horse some hay to feed on. Hay, compared to grains and muesli, have long chewing times. You can also think of other activities for your horse so that he will not be bored. Good suggestions would be a variety of physical activities and grooming your horse properly.

It must be noted though, that once a horse has been accustomed to cribbing, getting rid of the cause will only minimize the number of time the horse cribs, and not completely take it away from his system. It is important that the behaviour be taken away too. Although this may be a very difficult thing to do because the horse can crib on anything it could get its mouth on, there are a number of ways to approach this. But you must take note that there is no single technique that can treat your horse's bad habit. You need to be patient and try on all the possible techniques until you find that one technique that will work for your horse.


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The Importance Of Equine Joint Supplements

For humans as well as equines, a balanced nutritional diet goes a long way toward preventing disease, lameness, and arthritic conditions. Proper choice in hay and pasture can keep your horse in top shape for years. However, certain conditions may require the use of joint supplements for horses. Some of these conditions might be an older horse, a horse that has suffered an injury, a horse with a heavy workload, or a highly athletic show horse. In these situations, choosing the right joint supplements for horses is very important.

If you are subjecting your horse to a heavy or athletic work routine, Glucosamine products are good horse joint supplements to have on hand. Glucosamine equine joint supplements are derived from a substance called chitin, which comes primarily from ground shrimp and crab shells. Of all the joint supplements on the market Glucosamine is probably the one that is most researched. Its primary function is to help keep the horse's joints and cartilage lubricated and aid in the proper formation of the joint tissue. As the equine ages, or as its body is subjected to consistent rigorous riding, it may not produce the sufficient amounts of Glucosamine on its own, which can result in cartilage that loses its shock absorption ability within the horse's joints. The joints may then become stiff and painful. This can lead to limited range of motion and in severe cases lameness and even deformation. If you want to enjoy a long riding or working relationship with your horse, you may want to consider adding a joint enhancing or healing supplement to the horse's diet to allow them the best chance of keeping healthy through the rigors of working Talk to other horse owners about what supplements for horses they use and whether they would recommend them. Shop around. Read ingredients. Educate yourself and then make the best choice for your equine partner.

Your local vet is another excellent source of information for the latest joint supplements for horses. If your horse is experiencing a nutritional need outside of good forage, please schedule a visit and get your vet's input on what they feel would be the right equine joint supplements for your own horse. Proper supplement care and a balanced nutritional diet will keep both you and your horse enjoying your rides for many years to come.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Faith_Kaltenbach

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Article Submitted On: December 27, 2010


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Why You Should Consider Using An Electrical Fences for Horses

Electrical Fences and Horses

Electric fences are amongst the many types of fences that are widely used for animal control. Using electricity to deter animals and people from crossing a particular boundary; these types of fences can effectively contain domestic and livestock animals. More and more horse owners are using these fences because of their reliability and effectiveness.

Some of the reasons so many people are using electrical fences for containing their horses are:

It is safer than traditional fencing, there are fewer incidents and accidents than with traditional barbed fences for instance;They are more affordable and cost effective than traditional fencing, able to cover larger distances with fewer posts and last longer than traditional materials;They can prevent wear on a fence from 'cribbing' or chewing;It requires far less maintenance than a traditional fence;They are easy and quick to erect and collapse allowing you to move them from one area to another or erect as a temporary measure.

Horses are easy to control with electric fencing. They are intelligent animals and quickly learn to respect an fence. Many people are concerned about whether electrical fences are safe, but there is simply an irrational fear surrounding the use of such fences. Are electric fences safe for your horse? the answer is simple - Yes.

When your horse touches the wire on an electric fence it closes the electrical circuit which allows the current to flow through the horse and into the soil, and finally back to the energizer. This results in the horse experiencing a sudden, but ultimately harmless shock causing it to back away from the electrified fence. The lesson is learnt. The idea that an animal will continually receive an excessive shock is frankly silly. Horses are smart creatures, any owner will tell you that. The fence teaches them a lesson, nothing more.

Traditional wire or wooden fencing is much more likely to injure your horse especially when they get scared or spooked by a predator and attempt to push through or jump over it. A properly installed electrified fence system is the safest, most visible method to control horses. Not only is the fence strong enough to take the horses weight, but it can be made tall enough that the horse will not attempt to jump it. The materials available as a replacement to wire include electric tape and rope, both highly visible to your horse.


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Simple Ways To Prevent Cribbing

Cribbing happens when a horse swallows air. By definition, someone who does not know a lot about horses would think that this is nothing serious but for a horseman who has dedicated all his time and effort raising horses. This is something that is painful to witness. Cribbing is done by a horse who gets an immobile object by pressing its teeth against the object and then bend its neck before he swallows air into his throat and lets out a belching or grunting sound.

There is a great uncertainty as to why horses do this but most experts believe that cribbing is done out of boredom. This thing that horses do to battle boredom becomes a habit. This is because of the pleasure that the horse gets when he cribs.

Cribbing may be a source of a lot of problems related to the horse's health conditions. Among the many effects of cribbing are: dental problems, indigestion and gastrointestinal concerns caused by the air that is sucked down the horse's throat. The worst thing that may happen because of cribbing is the death of a horse if it is done very often.

Unfortunately, once cribbing manifests in a horse's behaviour, it will not be a very easy task for a horseman to get his horse to stop. The best way to handle this problem is to avoid the occurrence of such activity.

The first thing you should do to prevent the happening of this bad habit is to make certain that your horses get enough activity so that boredom does not persist. Since they are, by nature, foragers, keeping them confined in stables over long periods of time can be a cause for them to feel stressed and bored. And when they are bored they will try to look for something to do to get them out of their boredom. It is important that you provide your horse with a toy that he can play with inside the stable. Also, allot a time for your horses to be able to grazie in a big pasture.

Stress may be a result of pain, distress or unease. Horses feel good when they are cleaned and well-groomed. Improper grooming leads to anxiety which can lead them to resort to cribbing. Keeping your horse clean will make them feel happy and contented even when they are left in a stable for a long period.

Like what they always say, prevention is always better than cure so take this measures and you will be ensured that the chances that your horse will crib will be reduced.


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The Benefits of Using Nutcracker Cribbing Collar

The cribbing habits in horses are pretty hard to break. Apart from reducing the resale value of your horse, it can also cause numerous health issues. According to a study, it has been proved that the number of horses facing this problem is increasing day by day. Even if your horse do not have this problem currently, it is very important to take the right measures to prevent this problem. Most of the horses will go under this condition when they are under stress. Boredom can also develop the cribbing habits in your horse. However, there is no need to get panic, as there are different types of methods obtainable in the market, which can eliminate these problems from your horses. Using the Nutcracker cribbing collar is also one such proven methods.

This collar will lock the throat of your horse. Therefore, whenever they try to pull in their head for cribbing, they will feel uncomfortable in the neck. However, there are few things you must give importance when selecting a cribbing collar. It is also very important to buy the right collar size for your horse. However, when you are buying a Nutcracker cribbing collar, you do not have to worry about the size, as they are available with adjustable buckles. However, when you are planning to buy these collars, make sure you are opting for the genuine one. As the demands of these products are booming in the market, there are also few fake manufacturers who are providing low quality products. If you are selecting a genuine Nutcracker collar, you will be able to see the engraving of the company's name in it. Most of the customers who used these collars for their horses were able to eliminate the cribbing habit within a short period.

Cribbing is usually caused due lack of exercise, boredom or stress. Therefore, you should make sure that your horse is not going under stress or boredom. You should also not lock your horse long time in a stall. In case, if you are going out, make sure you fill sufficient food and some toys in the stall. There are also few simple methods, which you can practice to get rid of the boredom of your horse. Using toys as well as providing them proper food will also help you to eliminate these habits from your horses.

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Article Submitted On: December 20, 2010


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The Best Steps to Take for Choosing a Good Boarding Stable

Just as no one would ever pay for a major investment without checking it in person, the same idea should apply when looking for a horse boarding stable. It is a big investment, just as owning a horse is, and knowing that you are getting the best return for your money is certainly nothing to be taken so lightly. Choosing any boarding stable without going through the important steps to inspect it along with the surrounding area, could not only cost a lot of time and money, it could also take a toll on you emotionally, should anything happen to your horse from less-than-ideal conditions.

Research and Ask Around

First of all, checking local listings will give a better idea of how many boarding facilities are available within a convenient area. Compile a list of potential places that might work best for you and your horse, by either looking at website information or calling directly to find out about the services and prices they offer. After checking and compiling a short list, it would be a good idea to find out the history and reputation of the boarding stables throughout the equestrian community. Asking friends and experts who would have first-hand experience and information about the different boarding facilities will give a better idea of what would work best to suit specific needs.

Check Boarding Stables in Person

While researching and asking around may help to give a much better idea of which facilities are worth looking into, physically checking the grounds and equipment will not only give piece of mind, but also give you a better idea of what exactly the monthly fees include. When visiting, make sure to walk through with the site owner and ask any questions that make come to mind. Walk around the grounds to fully check all of the stables, pastures, the fencing that surrounds the grounds, as well as the feed and bedding storage.

By taking the time to check every last detail in person will ensure the safety and well-being of your horse along with the satisfaction knowing the horse boarding stables provide the best service for your investment.Just as no one would ever pay for a major investment without checking it in person, the same idea should apply when looking for a horse boarding stable. It is a big investment, just as owning a horse is, and knowing that you are getting the best return for your money is certainly nothing to be taken so lightly. Choosing any boarding stable without going through the important steps to inspect it along with the surrounding area, could not only cost a lot of time and money, it could also take a toll on you emotionally, should anything happen to your horse from less-than-ideal conditions.

Research and Ask Around

First of all, checking local listings will give a better idea of how many boarding facilities are available within a convenient area. Compile a list of potential places that might work best for you and your horse, by either looking at website information or calling directly to find out about the services and prices they offer. After checking and compiling a short list, it would be a good idea to find out the history and reputation of the boarding stables throughout the equestrian community. Asking friends and experts who would have first-hand experience and information about the different boarding facilities will give a better idea of what would work best to suit specific needs.

Check Boarding Stables in Person

While researching and asking around may help to give a much better idea of which facilities are worth looking into, physically checking the grounds and equipment will not only give piece of mind, but also give you a better idea of what exactly the monthly fees include. When visiting, make sure to walk through with the site owner and ask any questions that make come to mind. Walk around the grounds to fully check all of the stables, pastures, the fencing that surrounds the grounds, as well as the feed and bedding storage.

By taking the time to check every last detail in person will ensure the safety and well-being of your horse along with the satisfaction knowing the horse boarding stables provide the best service for your investment.


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The Top 5 Most Horrible Reasons to Stop Horse Cribbing

Horse cribbing, also known as "wind sucking" and "crib sucking", is a compulsive behavior that usually involves the horse grabbing a solid object, such as the stall door or fence rail, with his incisors, arching his neck, pulling against the object, and sucking in air.

By nature, horses want to nibble and graze. In the wild, they keep themselves occupied by wandering and grazing. Unfortunately, the domesticated horse may be stabled most of the time. He eats and drinks only when he's fed or watered and exercising only when taken out of the stable. In such a scenario, the horse's natural grazing instincts are somewhat satisfied by substitute behaviors, such as chewing wood in the stall.

Cribbing is believed to be an obsessive compulsive behavior (OCD) that's highly addictive and may affect an estimated fifteen percent (15%) of domesticated horses.

Cribbing is also believed to cause the release of natural painkillers or "endorphins" in the horse's brain, causing a momentary sensation of pleasure. A related habit, wood chewing, does not involve sucking in air. The horse simply gnaws on wood rails or boards as if they were food.

Unfortunately for the stable owner, cribbing can harm both the horse and the stable. Indeed, cribbing horses are a stable owner's worst nightmare! In fact, here are the top five reasons to stop horse cribbing:

Cribbing can cause considerable property damage. Cribbing horses wear down stall doors, mangers, and fence rails.

While damage to wood caused by the horse grabbing an object with its teeth can be minimized by covering it with metal, doing so won't stop the act of cribbing itself. Covering wood with a "cribbing paint" that contains a bitter tasting chemical may stop a horse from developing the habit or stop the habit entirely if caught early. But it may have little effect on confirmed cribbers.

Stall owners suffer due to the loss of value of their horses due to cribbing. Nobody wants a cribbing horse on their stable. So a stable owner with a confirmed cribber may have to accept the fact that he would have a hard time looking for buyers should the time come for him to sell his horse.

Cribbing wears down the horse's teeth. Cribbing horses may wear down their incisors faster than their teeth could grow out. If left untreated, this could eventually lead to the misalignment and deterioration of the teeth which could take years to correct.

A long-term cribber can grind his front teeth down so low that a gap occurs between the upper and lower teeth even when the jaw is completely closed!

Tooth problems could lead to more serious health complications such as colic. The act of sucking in air while cribbing has been linked to colic, though it has recently been determined that the horse does not actually swallow the air, as was once thought, and air does not collect in the animal's stomach.

Horses that simply chew wood rather than crib are also at risk for colic because they will ingest small amounts of wood, which can lead to stomach upset.

It is also commonly believed that cribbing can ultimately lead to an increased chance of colic, flatulence, and digestion problems due to the air that is swallowed. For this reason there are some equine insurance companies that will refuse to provide coverage to a cribbing horse. For them, the increased risk of health issues is simply not worth it.

Cribbing could spread to other horses in a stable.

Cribbing could also spread to other horses in the stable. Horses are herd animals and so they tend to observe, and more importantly mimic, each other's actions. If a horse watches another horse crib for extended periods of time then there's a good chance that the observer will imitate the behavior he observes. Fortunately, some horses will dismiss the cribber and never pick up the vice. But cribbing can be an extremely contagious habit. So it's best to isolate a cribber from the rest of the herd.

So what are the steps that you can take to prevent horse cribbing on your stable?

First, distract your horse from cribbing by supplying him with food or a toy. Most cribbing starts when a horse becomes bored or stressed. Having hay or grass available at all times can also prevent a horse from cribbing. Putting a horse toy in the stall, one that has a treat inside can distract the horse from cribbing.

Second, use a cribbing strap or collar on your horse. Cribbing straps fit around the horse's throat right behind the head. The strap does not hurt the horse or prevent him from eating or drinking normally. It puts pressure on the horse's throat when he attempts to arch his neck to crib, making cribbing uncomfortable. This can stop most horses, but some still attempt to crib despite the straps.

Next, apply liquids or sprays to wood made for cribbing horses. These products are made to taste bad to a horse and may discourage him from biting on the wood. Some horses dislike the taste and stop cribbing altogether; others may not mind the taste. This method only works on the areas you spray. If the horse is moved to a different area, he can start cribbing again.

Lastly, run an electric fence on top of or in place of wooden fence. This can stop cribbing immediately, as the horse won't dare touch the electric fence. This method doesn't work in a stall or barn where an electric fence can't be used.


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Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Interesting and Fun Facts on Horses

Horses are known for their power, grace, beauty, nobility, strength and freedom. They are part of the family Equidae, which consist of donkeys, zebras, mules and more. There exists more than 250 breeds of horses. They are mostly bred to pull carts, work on farms, for racing, showing and even as a beloved pet. Having a horse as an animal companion has become as common as having a pet dog or cat. A horses height is measured in units know as "hands". One hand is equal to 4 inches. The average riding horse is 15 hands tall. That's about 60 inches or 5 feet tall.

These hoofed mammals can live for around 20 - 25 years. Old Billy is one of the oldest horses that lived an astonishing 62 years of age. Old Billy was born in England in 1760 and lived as a barge horse that pulled barges up and down canals. Horses have evolved over the past 45 - 55 million years. From a small multi-toed creature into the large, single-toed creature we see today. The male is called a Stallion and the female is known as Mare. The baby is also known as a Foal. The diet of the horse consists of short, juicy grass and hay, along with barley, maize, oats and bran. This beautiful creature normally weighs around 1000 to 1100 pounds.

The elegance and beauty of a horse has been used in home decor today. It symbolizes power and movement. When used in Feng Shui, it can bring success, fame, freedom and speed. It has been said that placing two horses together can help build strong partnership in business or in marriage. The figurines should be placed such that it is coming in and not going out of the house. Horse shoes are also considered to be lucky however, hanging a horse shoe upside down is considered back luck.


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What To Look For In Quality Horse Bedding

Finding quality horse bedding is an important part of owning and properly caring for a horse. There are many horse bedding options and providers available, so there are a few things to look for to ensure that you are getting the best value.

The shaving compression of the bedding is very important when making your decision. The more compressed your shavings are, the more you are getting in the bag of shavings. Generally, shaving manufacturers offer 2-to-1 compression, or no compression at all. However, your best bet is to find a manufacturer that offers more along the lines of 4-to-1 compression to ensure that you are getting the most for your money. This is usually found in "Ultra Compressed" packaging and is of generally higher quality.

It is important to make sure that your horse bedding of choice has been properly sterilized and contains as little dust as possible. This will ensure the greatest respiratory health, safety, and comfort for your horse or other pet. Your horse bedding should also be relatively light in comparison to other brands. This generally means that there is only a small amount of dust, fines, and moisture, providing an overall superior product.

If your provider of choice has a website, take a look to see what exactly they provide. Find out if they specify the benefits associated with using their particular brand. Also, if they have any sort of reviews or testimonials, take a look at those as well. There is no better insight into a company than to find out what others in your same situation are saying.


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Ideal Horse Farms In America

Horses are voracious eaters consuming about 20 to 25 pounds of food and drinks about five to ten gallons of water a day depending on the weight of the horse. Their food which is mainly composed of hay, which is their basic food, concentrates made from whole, rolled and cracked grains and manufactured feeds. Because of their extremely large appetite, a farm where they can freely graze is vital to their health, performance and survival.

The maximum number of horses grazing a pasture depends on various factors which include the soil type, the drainage, the settlement or behavior of the group, weather conditions, conditions of the pasture and how well it is tended and the sort. Thus the size of the grazing land is also taken into account because horses naturally perform best when they are allowed to be in the open.

Horse farms highly abound in the American soil but only a few belong to the ideal setting of how a horse farm should be. Standards are set such that horse neglect never happen. If they do, both the government and non-government organizations such as animal protectors fighting for their rights set in once they see cruelty to animals.

Established by Arthur B. Hancock, one of best horse farms in America is a Claiborne Farm, just outside of Kentucky, which has it trail of historic winnings for its breed horses. Among the titles that their horses earned include Triple Crown, Horse of the Year, Breeder's Cup and among others that made Claiborne Farm stay at the top one post for the longest time not just in America but worldwide.

Coveting the top two positions is a historic 800 acres Calumet Farm which is known for its Thoroughbreds that set records for being the winners for Kentucky Derby and Triple Crowns. Mr. Wright, the original owner of the farm who started with a Standardbred gelding but the farm was later sold to Henryk de Kwiatkowski in 1992 because of bankruptcy and was passed to family members and trustees when he died in 2003.

Sheldak Ranch, which belongs to the top 3 post is known for their horses that excel not just in one event but also in halter to roping to steer daubing to pleasure. The farm produces top quality horses that are being sold throughout the US, Canada, Mexico, Spain and many other horse-loving countries.

Having beautiful, colorful, tractable horse home produced by generations of breeding is something worthy of all-breed credentials. Like humans, horses need the best amenities and treatment so that they too, will perform and be their best.


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The Dangers of Cribbing

Cribbing is a vice for horses that is also called wind sucking. It mainly consists of using his incisors to gnaw wood from structures that reach up to his sternum. So why is it also known as wind sucking? As the horse bites into the wood, he inhales deeply, sucking "wind" in. This triggers hormones that give him a high of sorts.

What is colic? Colic is a condition that relates to everything that is gastrointestinal in nature and which causes pain. It is known to be the no. 1 killer of horses. Horses are prone to colic due to the fact that their gastrointestinal tracts are designed in a more complicated manner. It is composed of more twists and bends that act as pathways for food to pass through. It should be understood though that colic is not a sickness, but more of a symptom or a signal of a disease that could prove to be serious.

What is the relation between cribbing and colic? There is a high possibility of ingestion of small parts of wood in the act of cribbing, which leads to an upset in digestion. It is said that the connection is mostly because of the build up of gas in the gut-which leads to colic-due to wind sucking. However, there is no definitive answer to the connection between cribbing and colic. Although most horses who suffer from colic are inveterate cribbers, the cause for colic may lie in the factors that make a cribber out of the horse in the first place.

Naturally, gnawing on something solid for a prolonged period of time will surely cause dental problems. The act is bound to hasten the wear and tear of teeth. Compulsive cribbing can whittle the horse's teeth down to such mere nubs that sometimes, the teeth are already in line with the gums. With a horse that is not a habitual cribber, this is not much of a problem as they only do this occasionally. But for those that are otherwise, this may affect their ability to graze.

Some cribbing horses suffer from the inability to gain weight. It is not because of the reason that the air that they had sucked in has bloated their stomach, it is more of the horses preferring cribbing over eating.

Having a horse that suffers cribbing is a serious and worrying matter. Long-term cribbing can ultimately lead to a horse's demise. So it is always best to be vigilant to any signs that your horse is indulging in this. Always remember to consult your veterinarian before attempting to treat your horse of cribbing.


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How to Trailer Train Your Horse - Load Your Horse The Easy Way

When you are ready to load your horse to go up the hill, or to join friends for a nice ride, the last thing you want to have to worry about is whether or not it will willingly get in. Since it is almost a given that the horse is bigger than you are (unless you are Hoss Cartwright or the Hulk), the chances of you pushing, or pulling, it into where you want it are slim to non-existent.

One way to train a trail horse to get into a trailer is to walk in ahead of the animal holding some of its favorite food or treat. Something like a small bucket of oats, a handful of alfalfa, a lump of sugar, apple, or commercial horse treats should work well for this. This is a two person operation to start with. Make sure you have a door at the front end of the trailer, or some other opening, so you can safely get out of the trailer once the animal is in. Once you have gotten into the trailer turn around and face the animal, then show them the treat in your hand, or the bucket. Let them get a bit of a taste or smell so that they are interested, then slowly walk backwards until you have them all the way in the trailer. Remember to always remain calm, as they can smell or sense fear or nervousness. At this point you can have someone else close the door behind them so they do not back out. You can, if needed, secure the animal to a harness ring at this point. Once the animal has gotten used to this, and it will take a few times for that to happen, you can simply put the treat at the front end of the trailer before opening the doors to load the animal.

A second way, if you have a good bond with the horse, is to simply sit in the front end of the trailer and whistle, or use whatever signal your horse is used to, and then sit there and pet or nuzzle them to make them feel comfortable. Again always make sure you have a safe exit hole or door, just in case the animal gets spooked. This way may take a little longer, but it reduces the number of snacks your horse gets, and if weight is an issue this is a good thing. Be patient, in time they will be comfortable getting in the trailer.


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The Novices Guide To Horse Care

Horse Care is a critical element in the bond between mankind and horse. The way a horse reacts to its owner is greatly determined by the quality of its stabling, handling and feed. The accompany article will assist to impart a greater understanding of the basic principles of horse care.

Regular Grooming

The aim of a regular grooming routine is to remove any dust, dirt or additional material such as burs or dry perspiration from the horse's coat. Regular grooming also assists to massage the skin and encourage blood circulation. Consequently it is crucial to understand that it is not merely something that you conduct prior to a ride but it in reality helps encourage not only the health and well-being of your horse but helps its performance as well.

In the wild, undomesticated horses will actually clean each other on a daily basis by rolling as well as scratching and licking one another. However with the domestic horse and particularly one that is kept in a stable it is the obligation of the horse owner to insure that their horses are regularly groomed.

The basic elements of a grooming kit include a hoof pick, a hard and soft brush, a curry comb, a comb and bush for the forelock and tail as well as a sponge and a squeegee for after your horse has been washed.

Before you commence grooming your hose it is crucial for safety that the horses head is secured a way that will control the horse but allow it to be released rapidly in the case of an emergency. This can be done with either a quick release stable knot or a panic clip.

First of all the coat is lightly scuffed with a hard brush to take away any hard crusts of mud or dried sweat. It is recommended to keep this technique for the fleshy areas of the horse and not areas such as the face. When that is finished the horse should be cleaned with a soft brush, working from head to toe and following the grain of the hair. When you are brushing it is crucial that you continually tap the brush clean to make sure that you are not getting rid of dirt from one area and putting it in another. To finish up the horse is either wiped with a cloth or hosed and dried off with a squeegee to get rid of any last traces of dust.

Then with a wet sponge you are able to lightly wash out the nostrils, corners of the mouth as well as the undersurface of the tail and the anus. Make sure that you use a different sponge for the different ends of the horse.

Main And Tail

To properly care for your horse's tail it should be groomed on a regular basis to get rid of any foreign matter that has been tangled up. Whilst brushing the tail, make sure that you hold on to the tail higher the area that you are grooming so that you don't take out too much hair. The tail can be washed as needed with some water and a appropriate shampoo. The mane and forelock are combed out or brushed flat with a damp brush.


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Monday, January 24, 2011

Types of Horse Colic

The number one cause of death in horses is colic. What is colic? Colic relates to everything that has to do with abdominal or gastrointestinal pains. What causes colic? There is no defined answer to this, but it has been surmised to be ranging from indigestion to wind sucking.

Horse owners have to be vigilant in looking out for the health of their horse. Although horses are generally sturdy and not at all that prone to a lot of diseases, the moment a horse gets colic, there is a high probability that the horse may die. Colic is not really a disease but more of a symptom or a signal that signifies a more or less serious condition that could ultimately damage your horse's health. What are the types of colic? Let us enumerate and discuss the most common ones.

1) In one way or another, a horse is bound to experience having a tummy full of gas. This makes the intestines expand, and causes only minimal discomfort to the horse.

2) Horses also get parasites, and parasites may cause the intestine to spasm in an unnaturally fast and harsh fashion. Medical help may be sought, and this is usually easily resolved.

3) Impaction is the type of colic wherein a fractional or complete blockage in the intestine happens. Just as long as adequate medical assistance is administered, it does not present much of a problem.

4) Enteritis occurs when either the small or large intestine is inflamed due to infection. Medical intervention should definitely immediately be sought, as this is a serious condition.

5) Unlike us humans, horses cannot regurgitate excess food. Instead, their stomach balloons until it ruptures. Once it does, the horse dies.

6) Horses are susceptible to displacement and torsion of the intestines. With the former, displacement occurs when the intestine is in an abnormal position. The latter happens when the intestine is twisted. Both are fatal unless immediately operated upon.

The types are enumerated in mildest to most severe order. However, it is advisable that all types be regarded as deadly, since all types actually exhibit more or less similar symptoms. When you see your horse biting his stomach, pawing the ground, trying to kick his stomach, or rolling on the ground, these are definite signs of colic. For a more detailed list on the symptoms regarding colic, ask your veterinarian. Colic should be treated as soon as possible, as this can prove to be fatal.


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The Benefits of Using Cribbing Collars for Horses

People who own and love horses will surely know some methods to deal with the horse cribbing. This is also one of the most common problems that are resulted in many horses. However, if your horse is facing any type of cribbing problems, it is very important to consider the right measures to prevent the problem. However, you do not have to worry, as there are different methods as well as techniques to treat these problems. Part from the medications, there are different types of cribbing collars for horses. These types of collars have been helping many horse owners to get rid of the cribbing habits from their horses.

However, before you use this type of collars, it is very important to have some basic knowledge on cribbing. Cribbing is a situation when your horses will start swallowing the air. This condition is also known as wind sucking. Some horses will also crib by taking an object like fence post or a board with their upper teeth. Then arch their necks and pull back making a gasping sound or a grunting noise. As this type of habit will give them extra pleasure, it is pretty hard to get them out of it. However, there are many reasons why the horses will start the cribbing habits. Stress, boredom, lack of exercise can also result in cribbing. The horses that are locked in the stall for a long time will also easily pick up these habits.

As mentioned above cribbing collars for horses are capable of preventing this problem up to a great extent. As these collars will lock their jawbones, they will not be able to crib the wood. Usually, you will be able to see cribbing collars that are made with leather or metal. However, when you are selecting a collar for your horse, make sure you choose the right size.

Therefore, it is very important to show love and affection to your horse. Treat is as a good friend and try to meet at least the necessary requirements of your horse. In case, if you do not have to provide all the needs of your horses, there are few simple and inexpensive methods that will help you to treat your horse. In case, if you are finding any type of problems in your horse, make sure you to consult a doctor as early as possible and take the necessary steps.


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The Benefits of Specialty Horse Breeding Mats for Mating, Birthing and Foaling Applications

It is important to design breeding areas with the utmost safety for the horses and handlers in mind. Too many times we see or hear about accidents and incidents where good horses and handlers have been injured (or worse) due to something being overlooked regarding the safety of the breeding environment. Considering the costs involved with any breeding program, it is critical to get the safety aspect right the first time and to be able to maintain that standard.

One of the most important considerations when it comes to breeding area safety is the flooring. Because of the increased levels of strenuous activity and fluids that are present in any breeding operation, the choice of flooring is critical. You need a non-slip flooring material that can maintain traction even when wet. Traction and non-slip areas are imperative when it comes to safety. Not only is the stallion, mare and perhaps foal at foot in danger should there not be adequate footings, handlers and veterinary staff are also at risk. The flooring should also allow for the stallions and mares to have optimum shock absorbency during this time, as the act of breeding can be intensely physical.

With these needs in mind, rubber horse mats are the obvious choice for this application. However, not all mats are created equally. When it comes to horses or any animals for that matter, it is better to choose a revulcanized rubber mat rather than a polyurethane bonded rubber mat. Revulcanized mats have an impermeable surface that will not absorb animal fluids which can result in bacteria and foul odors. Given the increased volumes of fluids present in a breeding barn, the need to clean these areas thoroughly in order to reduce the risk of bacteria and infection being transmitted is paramount. Depending on the number of mares coming to the stallion, the likelihood of infection is increased with the more outside mares attending for service. Revulcanized rubber mats can be cleaned with warm soapy water and will dry relatively fast. Using a neutral Ph cleaner is recommended for these areas. Unlike polyurethane bonded rubber mats, moisture and liquids will not penetrate the surface of revulcanized mats, and therefore will not harbor any bacteria. Revulcanized mats are also more durable than polyurethane bonded rubber mats which is an important consideration, particularly in these demanding applications. Even with all of this in mind, revulcanized rubber horse mats are most commonly designed for the application of standard horse stalls.

There is a unique solution available that is specifically designed for breeding applications including semen collection, mating and foaling. These " interlocking revulcanized rubber breeding mats have a diamond traction surface combined with a waffle pattern underside. This advanced design offers the superior traction and increased cushioning that these applications demand without compromising durability. These mats interlock to create a virtual one-piece floor for maximum stability. These specialty breeding mats provide superior performance when compared to standard horse stall mats for these demanding applications.

Let's look at each breeding application more closely. When it comes to semen collection, lubricant and semen can provide for a wet environment. Both the stallion and the handlers are at increased risk of slipping. The extra traction that these breeding mats offer is a necessary element for a handler's safety during the preparation of the stallion and the actual collection of the semen. A negative experience for a stallion when collecting semen can influence future semen collections from that horse. It is therefore imperative that the breeding barn is set up in such a way that the stallion is able to enter and exit safely and without incident as well as provide a good quality semen sample.

Looking at mating, the surface of the matting should have a ridged surface so that a stallion is able to get maximum grip when mounting the mare. The mare will also need to have plenty of traction to endure the weight of the stallion. Both the stallion and the mare will benefit from the increased cushion of these mats when mating. This increased forgiveness also adds greatly to the traction when it comes to mounting. Even when wet, these mats are able to continue to provide the ultimate amount of traction for horses. This means that staff may therefore clean the area between services, and allow another mare to enter the barn whilst the mats are still wet. This will not jeopardize the mare's safety or that of the handler or awaiting stallion. If there is a foal at foot whilst breeding the mare, then the foal will need to be in a safe area that will not allow for it to slip and be injured during the mating.

For foals, standard rubber horse mats do not provide the cushioning required as they are designed for much larger and heavier horses. The unique waffle bottom design of these breeding mats provides the perfect cushioning to young foals. They also greatly help foals gain their footing and help them to stand up.

In all three scenarios, these revolutionary revulcanized waffle-bottom breeding mats offer many benefits that traditional horse stall mats cannot. Waffle mats can allow optimum cushioning in order for a horse to get the greatest possible traction regardless of whether the mat is wet or dry. This means that a mat such as this is able to reduce the likelihood of slipping, sliding and stumbling by both mare and stallion as well as handlers and veterinary staff. This unique design of breeding mat can provide maximum longevity as well as comfort to the horse. These mats are easy to clean, will not harbor bacteria or cause infection and can be installed with ease. When it comes to the financial as well as the emotional investment of breeding horses, ensuring that you provide the best possible environment for a mare to be bred, or for semen to be collected is pivotal in this transaction. Unsafe and slippery flooring means an increase in the potential for injury to handlers as well as equines. For these reasons, it is best to use specialty revulcanized rubber breeding mats over standard horse stall mats for these demanding applications.


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Whats the Buzz About Bots?

It reminds you of the waltz of the bumblebees, but this isn't a waltz and this isn't a bumblebee.

One of the signs of summer is the arrival of one of nature's great imposters. Their appearance signals the beginning of a new season, the time of the Bot Fly. Resembling large brown bumblebees, Bot flies herald the beginning of your horse's summer torture.

These large flies hover and buzz around livestock hosts preparing to lay their eggs and begin a new cycle for the fly. Horses in particular are a favorite and the flies aggressively lay several hundred eggs along leg and chest hairs of the horse's coat. The buzzing sound announces the approach of the fly and the fly's subsequent touching of the horse's skin, often drives horses wild. Jumping, shaking and running to evade these buzzing invaders is often fruitless as the flies will persist until they are able to lay their eggs.

To propagate the flies need to have their eggs ingested by the animal, and sometimes human, host where they grow and develop. Safely contained in the hosts stomach the eggs attach to the stomach wall and remain for 10 months. Here they are fed by the host and nurtured until hatching into larvae which pass through the intestinal track via manure.

The resulting infested manure provides the next stage in the life cycle of the Bot Fly and the larvae now become pupae. This stage takes about two months to complete and like a butterfly, the Bot Fly emerges to complete the next step in the long life cycle.

The adult fly, which resembles a hairy brown bumblebee, flies out to seek a suitable host for the next generation... once mating is complete and the eggs laid, the fly then dies and the cycle is complete.

It is amazing how life evolves to perpetuate itself but in so doing it can damage the host. The damage is usually minimal and more studies are needed to effectively evaluate the long-term effects but slight damage is done to the stomach wall. Necropsies reveal a pitted area on the stomach wall where the Bot eggs were attached. Usually the stomach heals itself but in severe infestations it can cause colic, stomach ulcers and even death should the stomach rupture. Infested horses often look poorly as the feeding insects drain nutrients and blood from the horses system. The horse's immune system is weaker when infested and has greater difficulty with illness and with winter hardiness.

So how do you stop the Bot fly from infesting your horse? It can only be done by breaking the cycle.

In the past horsemen and women used toxic worming agents to kill the stomach eggs and special combs or knives to scrape the eggs from the horses body.

Now a greener and more earth (and animal) friendly product is used. Diatomaceous Earth is an easier all-natural way to break the Bot Fly cycle. Diatomaceous Earth, often called DE, is bad for Bots but good for horses. Feeding your horse DE on a daily basis will kill the eggs, kill the larvae and kill the pupae in the resulting manure and improve your horse's health as well.

Diatomaceous Earth is the skeletal remains of a microscopic creature. These creatures, called Diatoms, were tiny algae from millions of years ago and left great skeletal deposits on ancient sea floors. Today it is mined and used in many ways for a greener world.

DE works on Bot Flies in several ways. First it kills the eggs and any larvae in the stomach by dehydration and then flushes them from the system. Once passed DE will kill any pupae that do hatch in the manure and the eggs and larvae of any other fly as well. Using DE will reduce the Bot Fly population in addition to the common house fly and deer fly populations as well.

Next the DE supplies additional minerals to the horses system. DE is itself a mineral (Silicon Dioxide for bone and hair growth) but includes 13 other trace minerals as well, all of which are essential to overall good health. The trace minerals are calcium, magnesium, titanium dioxide, gallium, vanadium, strontium, sodium, boron, iron, potassium, manganese, copper and zirconium. This mineral supply boosts the horse's immune system and supports good overall health.

DE also cleans the system. Dead eggs and larvae are flushed out of the horse's digestive system with DE and in addition it purges sand or other non passed debris also. DE will also kill other internal parasites and worms and flush them as well. A horse with clean intestines is a healthy, happy horse.

Horses should be fed about ? cup to 1 cup of DE daily. This will depend upon the size of the horse but adjust it accordingly. A good rule is to feed 2% DE per body weight of the animal. Always start with a little and work to the full amount. This prevents a large die off of parasites which could cause distress to the animal. Start gently and in 7-10 days increase gradually to the full amount.

A WORD OF CAUTION, not all DE is equal. Food Grade DE is the ONLY one safe to use with animals. Commercial grade or "swimming pool" DE is in fact dangerous for use with people or livestock. ONLY USE FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH.

DE can be fed during the fly and parasite season or it can be fed year round. It is gentle on the horse's system and the mineral benefits make it a barn basic. Once you start using DE you will never miss this particular bumblebee imposter or his waltz again... in fact, the silence Diatomaceous Earth creates may be the only music you wish to hear.

LM Costello is a 40-year veteran in the equine world. Obtaining her Horse Master's degree in England and teaching certificate, she worked with Show Horses in both Canada and the USA. In the mid 1970's she moved to Arizona and opened a commercial stable and school. Later she and her husband moved to a remote Arizona cattle ranch to raise horses, developing a natural way of living. Now widowed, LMC lives in the city once more. Her story is chronicled on her blog http://www.amostunlikelycowgirl.com/.

LMC also teaches the basics to beginner horse enthusiasts with her website http://www.TheInternetHorse.com/.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lynne_Marie_Costello


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What Are The Disadvantages of Using Stall Mats?

In any ordinary horse stall with hay bedding, virtually all horses can liberally urinate and defecate on the ground. A number of horses will probably limit this to one area of the stall and the rare horse (given practical and occasional use of a field) is not going to soil their stall. But, many of us have noticed that horses are much less likely to urinate and defecate on a hard horse stall flooring. In the event that bedding is taken away, making a hard surface (whether it's concrete or with rubber matting), if the horses have free access to a paddock or fields, they gradually (over some weeks) choose to go outside rather than soil their stall.

Several horse lovers attest that their horses totally stop soiling their horse stall, while others report a reduction, and presumptively some would possibly not change their behavior. Regrettably, there is poor information on the extent of the horses behavioral change, so one can say that it only as a potential gain, dependent upon the individual horse and it's ability to access outside facilities.

Although many horse enthusiasts gain from using stall mats, there are some who do not prefer using it. Here's a few down sides of employing stall mats:

Additional Cost. The first drawback is that they are an additional expenditure. This particular cost will be fully, if not partly, offset as time passes by a decline in of the need for bedding, but there is still a huge cost up-front. Good quality horse stall mats (in terms of material and make) and thicker stall mats will for sure cost more than the lower quality or thinner ones.

Health Risks. The second downside is that urine may seep underneath the stall mats, where it is difficult to clean without taking out the mats. The trapped urine can discharge ammonia and unpleasant smells into the air, which is bad for horses as well as upsetting for people. Whether or not this is a serious issue is debatable. If a particular stall has interlocking rubber mats the quantity of seepage is limited. Also, if there's a fine drainage underneath (for example a compressed stone floor), the issue can be generally resolved as well. Whatever the case, good air flow in the stalls will go a long way to minimizing this problem. Additionally, one could use mats which can be easily moved, enabling periodic cleaning. If you are not sure, it may be best to try out mats in just one stall before investing in mats for all the horse stalls.

Technical Features. Another disadvantages are associated with the technical features previously mentioned. Low-quality stall mats are definitely more susceptible to damage or to corners lifting. Several mats are portable (good if one often travels with one's horse), while others are made to stay in place. Some are designed to be permeable or have textured surfaces, both characteristics can be an advantage or a downside, based on how you intend to use them.

Due to those various technical properties, one must consider both how the mat is to be used and choose the type appropriately; otherwise one may be disappointed with the outcome.


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What To Look For When Buying A Horse Float

Most people would agree that there are numerous advantages to owning a horse float. They offer a certain degree of freedom, allowing the owner to load their equine up and take them to competitions, the vets or simply to a different location for a ride, whenever they want. There is no doubt that having a horse float or trailer parked within easy reach is infinitely more convenient than having to hire or borrow one off a friend.

Purchasing a horse float for sale can be a very exciting time. However, with all the options available nowadays, the horse transport market can be a difficult one to traverse. A few simple points should be kept in mind to make the purchasing process easy, enjoyable and ultimately successful.

The first thing to think about is the kind of float that is required. If one small pony is the only animal that will be travelling, a double or even a single float will suffice. However, if the equine family is slightly larger, the owner might want to go for a triple angle loader, which will carry up to three horses, with plenty of extra room for gear and equipment. Do remember, if buying a large float, that there is a restriction in New Zealand on how much weight can be towed on a Full Drivers License. If the car, horses and float exceeds the 4.5 tonne limit (gross weight), the driver will need to upgrade to a Class 2 License.

After the basic style of float has been decided on, the smaller details can be examined. For example, is a float with electric brakes required or can the owner manage one without brakes? Brakes are generally recommended. Without brakes, the float will push against the tow vehicle every time its stops, and if there is a sway, the horse float can jack knife because there is nothing to control it. However, floats with brakes cost more and some people do feel that they can do without them, especially if they are only towing small, light horses or ponies.

Other optional extras can include water tanks, tack boxes, awnings, hay racks and even a full blown kitchen and shower. The more accessories a horse float for sale has, the more expensive it will be, so the number of additions will depend on the depth of the budget.

Once all the research and deliberating has been done, it is time to start shopping. If the budget is limitless, head to a professional float building company or distributor. They will have a wide variety of brand new floats on offer, with all the latest mod cons. Many of these businesses will also be able to custom-make floats, ensuring the purchaser ends up with a product that provides everything that they need. The size, colour, and number of additional accessories will all be tailored to the owner and their horse or pony.

If the budget won't stretch to a new horse float for sale, decent quality second hand versions can usually be found for a reasonable price. Online auctions and magazine classifieds are both good places to start the search. It is also worth bearing in mind that float hire companies sometimes sell off second hand stock for discounted prices.

If buying second hand, it is worth taking someone that is knowledgeable with vehicles along to view the float. They will be able to check for things such as wood rot or metal fatigue in the floor and ramp, damaged suspension and faulty electrics. Also, ask them to look at the condition of the metal chassis and to examine the roof for leaks.

If the above points are taken into account, the horse owner will soon find the perfect float for them and their equine friends. There are plenty of horse floats for sale out there, of all shapes, sizes and price. It's simply a case of understanding what to look for and then heading out and finding it. The reward is the freedom of being able to travel with their horse, whenever and wherever they want.

Equine Trader was launched in 2007 and has quickly developed into a leading online equestrian resource. It appeals to New Zealanders who own, ride and are passionate about horses. However, the hugely popular website also attracts equine lovers from throughout the rest of the world.

Membership is free and allows registered users to buy and sell through classifieds and auctions at no charge, browse over 400 horses and ponies for sale and participate in a wide range of exciting competitions and games.

Find horse floats for sale in our directory here. Equine Trader offers New Zealand's most comprehensive online equestrian directory

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Emma_Van_Tuyl


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Sunday, January 23, 2011

Most Everything I Know About People I Learned From Horses. 4

The more I work with horses and people the more I learn about each. This is the Fourth in a series of articles I would like to write about some of the things we teach to help in our relationship with our horses, as well as with each other and what we can learn from our creator.

We use 4 keywords in our teaching: Confidence, Consistency, Compassion and Connection.

CONFIDENCE: faith or belief that one will act in a right, proper & effective way

CONSISTENCY: uniform or persistent occurrence or re-occurrence

COMPASSION: involves tenderness & understanding

CONNECTION: a union, to join, link or bond

Working with the horses in the round pen is one of the first places we get connection but that only comes with trust and a willingness to come to us. There are a number of terms for this -- one we hear is "join up" when as you turn your shoulder the horse will come up beside you. Personally I like to open up my arms and have the horse come directly to me dropping his head in front of me for me to reach out and touch, rub and praise him. This action seems to demonstrate a much greater connection because of my openness to the horse-- they are willing to come to me relaxed, trusting and we could say humbly with head bowed because of my compassion or humbleness - two humble souls connecting.

Doesn't this hold true with our relationships with each other? Openness with humility and compassion (tenderness and understanding) in our relationships brings honesty and trust, and then it is not about us but about the other person. Pride is the wall that breaks relationships down.

Peter knew all about pride and Jesus worked hard to help him become a humble servant. 1 Peter 5:5 says "Young men, in the same way be submissive to those who are older. All of you clothe yourselves with humility toward one another, because, "God opposes the proud but gives grace to the humble." NIV

Do you think Peter got it?

There is no room for Pride in real love - God's love 1 Corinthians 13:4 "Love is patient, love is kind. It does not envy, it does not boast, it is not proud." NIV

There are different terms used for humility in the bible - I am told that there is no word in the Hebrew to describe humility - some of the terms we see are depressed, modest, down trodden, low estate, poor, and contrite heart.

God is quoted in Isaiah 66:2 "For My hand made all these things, thus all these things came into being," declares the LORD. "But to this one I will look, to him who is humble and contrite of spirit, and who trembles at My word."

Let's go back to the round pen - when we open up our arms to the horse waiting for him to make the choice to come to us without resistance, willingly - we are receptive to that - when the horse is running high headed looking for an escape route neither of us are ready for connection. I believe God is saying this -- when you get rid of your pride and bow down to Me in humility ready to submit to Me, trusting me, then my arms are ready, then I will turn and look at you and connect with you as you come to Me ready for Me to reach out and touch you and praise you.

Jesus understood this Hebrews 5:7 7 "During the days of Jesus' life on earth, he offered up prayers and petitions with fervent cries and tears to the one who could save him from death, and he was heard because of his reverent submission."

Use your time with your horse to learn about people!


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Why Use A Farrier's Hoof Stand?

The quick answer is to save your body from wear and tear or possible injury. When I finished farrier school in 1988, I purchased a lot of my farrier tools from an old farrier named John, he was 65 years old and still shoeing, and get this, he started when he was 16 years of age. John told me he credited his long farrier career of almost 50 years to the advice he shared with me.

Get yourself a farrier's hoof stand and use it. Need I say more?

I bought a hoof stand from John and used it till I wore it out over the course of about 18 years, I have two newer ones I presently use. So what exactly does a hoof stand do for you? First of all it provides a stable platform to place the horse's hoof on during the majority of your work time. I use it whenever I bring the feet forward to rasp the hoof wall, as well as clinch my nails and smooth the clinch whenever I shoe a horse.

I use an additional tool called a hoof cradle that inserts in the top of my stand to hold that back feet while I trim them. Once trained to the hoof stand, horses like the stability that is provided for them. If the horse decides to get out of Dodge, you don't have to be underneath, simply step back and let the hoof stand take the brunt of the action, and start again.

Lucky for you today there are a number of commercially available stands and I do suggest you get one and I do suggest you use it. Don't buy a hoof stand that is too tall, having one that adjusts is nice and convenient, if you need to do different size horses or ponies. You can make them yourself, although usually they are too heavy once you get done building them.

I credit using my farrier's stand for allowing me to be a professional farrier for 19 years. I did not start my farrier career until I was 42, so if you're a young buck you might not need one today, but you will some time, so you might as well get one and use it today. It just make sense to make trimming your horse as easy as possible. I can think of no other farrier tool that can make hoof trimming an easier and less dangerous task.


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USEF's Premier Hunter Judges Are Answering Questions About Equitation and Hunter Rounds

Hunter and equitation horse show judges are talking. Before your next horse show, get inside the minds of the nation's most respected hunter judges.

Have you always wanted to know why you did not win or get a ribbon? There are rules that allow only limited interaction with the horse show judges at most horse shows, but you can now tap into the knowledge base of these judges and benefit from their experience. Many of the United States Equestrian Federation's top rated judges have been interviewed and filmed. These judges have all presided over the highest level of hunter shows from the east to the west coast, such as Indoors, Palm Beach, Capitol Challenge, Harrisburg, HITS, Toronto Royal Winter Fair, Devon and many others. In addition, they are also trainers, clinicians, riders, and instructors. Now you as an exhibitor, trainer, owner or rider can learn from their knowledge and benefit from their experience and feedback. They have intentionally been asked specific detailed questions in order to get precise answers. The result is a virtual clinic of show hunter and equitation expertise.

Following is a few of the thoughts that come up regarding showing hunters and hunt seat equitation, and some of the questions that were asked of the judges:

Form follows function is the theme of good equitation. Many of our top Olympians excelled as Medal equitation winners. While most riders and trainers understand the basic equitation position, judging equitation is much more than placing in a beauty pageant. It's rating that indefinable connection between horse and rider and assessing good horsemanship. The judges were asked to describe the optimum attributes of a good riding position, and the most important aids that contribute to a solid equitation performance. The question asked was "What do you especially look for in an equitation ride? What are your top 3 priorities in the rider's form in terms of importance in an equitation rider, and why? (heels, hands, seat, etc.)"

A horse show is just that, a SHOW, and judges expect to see horses and riders at their best performance. Savvy raiders will go the extra distance and push the envelope to show off their best qualities and their horse's best qualities. Would a stylish sitting trot, a counter canter into the arena, or a turn on the forehand make an inpact? The question asked was "In an equitation class, what "extra credit" moves do you like to see, on the flat and over fences?"

Hunter and equitation courses consist of 8 or more jumps in 2 or more lines. For example, the course designer might set 2 jumps in a line measuring 72 feet, allowing five strides between jumps. Sometimes a short-strided horse may canter the line and fit in six strides, while a big-strided horse may easily take four strides. The question asked was "Do you penalize a short strided horse that adds a stride in a line, resulting in six even strides in a five stride line? Do you have the same answer in an equitation class?"

Given that judging hunters and equitation is a subjective profession, often trainers and riders want to know the reason their performance was or was not pinned in the judge's final order. USEF requires that a steward be present during a discussion with a judge. Most judges have a definite feeling about sharing their scoring and reasoning. The question asked was "Do you welcome a Junior or Amateur coming up and asking you a question about their score after a class?"

Although standards exist for high level judges, judging hunters is largely subjective, based on style, jumping form, even strides, technique and overall impression. The question asked was "What do you look for in a hunter? What is your idea of a "classic hunter"?"

In an equitation class, a rider can perform smoothly with an exemplary position, but sometimes a horse's sloppiness or laziness contributes to a rail down or fault, despite a proper ride. It is the judge's responsibility to assess this. The question asked was "If an equitation rider puts in a good ride but his horse makes some minor error like rapping a pole or a spook, how does this affect his score?"

Trainers and riders use various bits, aids and tack in order to maximize their horse's way of going, jumping style and rideability. Given the range of equipment allowed, judges may penalize for non-conventional types of tack. The questions asked "Do you consider tack on a hunter? Do you weigh the fact that a horse goes with or without a martingale? Do you credit/penalize a horse showing in a snaffle bit versus a pelham?"

In hunter under saddle classes, the horse's movement and manners are judged, with quality of movement paramount. Generally the horses are shown at a walk, trot, and canter both directions. Good trainers and riders can accentuate their horse's movement by creating a more extended, fluid and balanced gait. This gait is established through various means: establishing a certain amount of collection, moving at a faster pace, sometimes a looser rein, and/or various equipment to achieve the desired "frame" or way of going. The question was asked "In a hunter under saddle class, comment on the "frame" of the horse you are looking for."

Judges will notice an experienced professional rider or trainer versus a less experienced young rider or amateur adult as soon as he/she enters the show ring. Some class divisions are designed to separate non-professsional (amateurs and juniors) from professional riders (trainers). But some hunter classes allow both, and does the judge take into consideration who is riding the horse. The question was asked "If it comes down to two great rounds in a hunter class, one ridden by a professional and one by an amateur or junior, are there differences in the way the two rounds are judged?"

Imagine these questions and many more being answered by 15 to 20 of the top hunter judges in the country. Just learning one or two invaluable nuggets of horsemanship from over 250 answers, opinions and preferences will surely make a difference in your next horse show performance.

The brains of some of the USEF's top-rated hunter judges have been tapped, and more are being continually added. They are questioned regarding all aspects of how they judge hunters and hunt seat equitation. Their answers are filmed, and you hear straight from the judge's mouth. And you can repeatedly listen and learn. Check out http://www.askthehorseshowjudge.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sanka_Wall


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What Size Western Seat Should I Choose?

If you have never had a Western Saddle before deciding what size seat you will need can be a bit confusing. Even if you do ride in a Western saddle it is a good idea to make sure you are riding in the correct size seat for you.

In order to get the right size seat, a person's height, weight and circumference of the upper thigh is taken into consideration.

Generally, it is a good idea to have at least a fingers width between your thigh and the pommel or Swell in front of you without your pants being glued to the cantle or back of the seat.

When sitting in a comfortable position, you should have a little room behind you as well as in front. Some people may even like two fingers width for extra comfort.

If you ride in an English saddle the size does not transfer into the same size Western saddle. This is because the design and the way you measure a Western saddle seat is different to an English saddle.

The following chart is a breakdown of the thigh measurements and seat sizes. Thigh measurements should be taken while sitting. This is not an exact science but it will serve as a guideline.

16" to 16.5" thigh measurement = 13" Seat
17" to 17.5" " '' = 13.5" Seat
18" to 18.5" " '' = 14" Seat
19" to 20" " '' = 14.5" Seat
20.5" to 21.5" " '' = 15" Seat
22" to 23.5" " '' = 15.5" Seat
23.5" to 24" " '' = 16" Seat
24" to 24.5" " '' = 16.5" Seat
25" to 26" " '' = 17" Seat
26.5" to 27" " '' = 17.5" Seat
27" to 28" " '' = 18" Seat

My name is Annie and I have over 30 years experience in the horse industry. Thanks for stopping by and reading my guide.


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What Do You Want To Know About Western?

Each discipline of horsemanship training horses has features that make the disciplines they are. Western disciplines are characterized by the movement short, slow and minimal contact on the reins. Dressage is based on forward momentum and a good connection. Maybe you have experience riding west in the background and I like to learn more about dressage. We will discuss two important differences between disciplines - and drive contact and how to start work on these basic principles of dressage.

Perhaps one of the main differences between the disciplines of western riding and dressage horse is the amount of contact made on the reins. A good western horse moves with a very minimal contact, while a dressage horse is expected to lead to a much more gentle touch. Often, western riders have difficulty in increasing the feeling in his reins. The main thing to remember here is that to feel much increased feeling of the reins at the front; you must back up at least this much leg on the back. If the horse feels more pressure only on his face, he will stop or back up, or maybe duck behind the contact face curling in hand, as the pilots have more feel in the reins, while you must close the leg in contact. In this way, the horse is "closed" at both ends and comes round and come into contact.

No contact on the reins, the dressage horse is not well connected and has no reason to come. If the horse leans on the front and mounted on the back end, will be able to get in contact and around its top line. Without feeling the front, the horse takes in any setting is more natural at that time. For those types quarter mile, the frame is often low and flat on the neck, for the horses of Arab type, often up and up and down. If there is a lot of tension in the back, most of the horse heads will come up. The framework for a dressage horse riding is done backwards. Unlike a Western instrument that focuses on getting the head, neck, head and carrying a dressage horse simply reflects the way back to riding in the back and held at its rear end.

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Article Submitted On: November 29, 2010


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Saturday, January 22, 2011

Training Your Horse for Hoof Trimming

Training your horse to have its hooves trimmed is very much like halter training them, with a few twists and turns. The horse should be willing to stand completely still, lift its feet when commanded to do so, and let you work on that foot until you put down.

You would be surprised how many horses simply don't stand still, this is a sure sign of incomplete halter training. You will want your horse to be able to move backward, forward, left or right, move the front quarters, move the back quarters, all on your command signal. The command signals that you choose to use, may be moving the lead rope, applying pressure with your hand on the part you want move, or on a more advanced level just using your energy to move the horse. Once you've taught your horse to move on your signal, you then teach them not to move until you give them the signal to do so.

It is much easier to get the horse to lift its foot if it is standing in a balanced position, don't ask him to pick up his foot if most of his weight is on that foot, it's just not going to happen. You want the horse to be able pickup it's foot without falling on top you, so be very aware if your horse is standing balanced are not.

How to signal your horse to pick up his foot is completely up to you, here is what I do, first of all before I ever touched the foot, I make sure I can touch my horse all over the body before ever running my hand down the leg. I then run my hand down below the hock or the knee, I kiss to the horse as I do this, so horse knows I want them to do something. If the horse still won't pick up it's leg, I apply some pressure to the leg. Applying pressure can be done in a number of different ways, squeezing the tendon behind the cannon bone, squeezing the chestnut, digging in the fingernail to the side of that cannon bone, or gently tapping the cannon bone with your hand or the wooden part of your hoof knife. You do whatever you have to do to get them to lift the leg.

If the horse lifts it's leg ever so slightly, maybe just taking the weight off from it, I release the leg, and stand up rub their body a bit and tell them they did a good job. You want to reward the horse for any try whatsoever when lifting their legs, this will create better communications with your horse and reward them for listening to you. You will want to increase the time of the leg being off the ground until is long enough that you could actually trim the horse, by doing it without your tools for a while, when the time arrives to actually trim your horse it will be a breeze.

I've used this method not only for training young horses, but to retrain older horses that were not very good with their feet, even horses that kick can be retrained using this method.


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How to Trim Your Draft Horse Hooves

Draft horses require some good halter training, before you are going to have much success handling their feet. This is true of all horses but especially draft horses simply because they are like the 800 pound gorilla in the room. Where does he sit? Anywhere they want to unless of course they have had some good halter training. Do yourself a favor and spend a lot of time working with your horse so that you can move his feet any direction forward, reverse, left, right, up and down. Make sure your draft horse will readily give their foot to you when you run your hand down the leg and squeeze the tendon on the back of their cannon bone. If I have trouble getting them to lift their feet, I try squeezing the tendon harder, digging my fingernail in on the side of the cannon bone, squeezing their chestnut, lightly tapping the cannon bone with the wooden handle of my hoof knife. Don't go overboard, you do not want to get them upset you just want them to try, reward even a slight shift of weight.

Once you've got the hoof in your hand you're going need the right tools for working on draft horses. A good sharp set of nippers preferably 15 inches or longer will work, if your nippers are dull, you just are not going to get the job done. Because of the heavy weight of the horse, and some breed genetics, some workhorses have very flat feet, and don't seem to show much hoof growth, often because of a lot of wear, due to heavy weight and abrasive footing like sand and rocks, there usually is some flaring to the hoof, possibly cracking, simply clean up the foot by cutting away the flare to the hoof so it looks trim and tidy, this will prevent chipping and further cracking of the hoof.

When working on a draft horse, a good farrier hoof stand is a must in my opinion especially if you value your back at all. I use a hoof cradle on the top of my hoof stand to hold the foot for easy trimming. A standard farrier hoof rasp will work just fine on a draft horse, although some designed for work horses are available. Because draft horses with their weight put a lot of stress on their hooves, cracking of the hoof can get out a hand, so a good hoof dressing, can reduce moisture loss through the side of the hoof wall and reduce hoof cracking, remember to only apply hoof dressing to the side of the hoof wall never the bottom of the hoof wall or sole area, as the bottom of the foot allows moisture into the foot from the ground, and if you seal that off, no moisture can get into the hoof wall, other than that supplied by the blood stream at the coronary band.


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