Fighting Rabies With Horse Supplements And Sound Judgment

Fighting Rabies With Horse Supplements And Sound Judgment



Horse Supplements can make your horse tough. Even so, you may still find some ailments that cannot be addressed with supplements alone.
This includes horse rabies. Stricken horses may display depression, increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, lack of coordination, intense behavior, hyper-excitability, colic, convulsions or paralysis. Death typically takes place three to five days following the beginning of clinical signs, but it can also occur within just one day. Presently no laboratory tests are available to confirm rabies in a live animal.
A postmortem test is required to give a definitive diagnosis. Horse proprietors who think their pets are rabid should take special care in handling and be confining suspect animals. Reduce the number of people in contact with a potentially rabid horse. This limits the volume of people who may need rabies treatment. Confirmed or even suspect cases have to be reported to the state veterinarian and public medical officials. If a horse is suspected to be rabid, it is usually put to sleep to avoid further injuries to itself, to people handling the horse, and stop the opportunity of any transmission to humans.
Additionally, since rabies can be seen in several forms, it could be easily confused with other horse nerve ailments. Therefore, any horse that passes away for unexplained reasons or has neurological complications should be analyzed for rabies. In a United States research, the typical incubation period for a horse contaminated with rabies was 12 days plus the average time frame from first signs to death was 5 days. Those animals which had no preceding vaccination history had significantly shorter incubation periods and died earlier. Muzzle tremors were the most frequently observed and most typical initial indicator.
Some other normal signs included: difficulty swallowing, paralysis, weakness or sleepiness. The rabies virus strikes the central nervous system producing disease of the brain and can eventually lead to the death of the afflicted individual. The incubation time period may last as long as four months. This incubation span depends upon the location of the original bite and volume of virus contained in the bite itself. The virus first increases at the site of the injury and later moves up the peripheral nerves to the brain and salivary glands. All warm-blooded creatures may be contaminated with rabies.
Horse Supplements might help your horse but it is great to have them vaccinated also. During this incubation period, the horse may display no indications of illness. Most human bacterial infections of rabies are obtained from human interaction with companion animals or infected bats. Just think of all the time you spend connecting with your horse's mouth. You might be constantly putting food inside their mouths or removing them right after riding, which is a lot of exposure to saliva. Rabies can be prevented by constraining direct exposure to wild carnivores and by vaccination of other pets. When wild animals appear extremely friendly, especially during daylight hours, be suspicious! Don't get close to them or attempt to ward them off. Instead, call your local public health officials to share with them of such uncommon animal behavior.
Horse supplements specialists have various advice and expert opinions on how you take good care of your beloved equines using the supreme horse vitamins in their day-to-day diet regime.

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Strong Horses Thanks To Horse Supplements

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What Are the Horse Facts About Riding a Horse?

What Are the Horse Facts About Riding a Horse?



One of the greatest thrills for any horse lover who loves horse facts is the special first time when he slips his foot in the stirrup and mounts a horse, who's ready to take off into the sunset. But is riding a horse a skill that must be acquired or can anyone, large or small, climb in the saddle and gallop down the road?
The biggest obstacle any potential horse lover has is his fear of getting on the back of such a powerful animal. It takes a lot of faith to believe that a little piece of metal in the horse's mouth will control that 1200-pound equine. Also, what's holding that heavy saddle on the back of the horse? What? A little piece of cottony, leathery material with some leather straps?
Sure, it does take much faith to believe the tack will stay intact while you stay on!
Most beginning riders make several mistakes. You can't approach a horse with your mouth full of giggles and grins or hoots and hollers. It's a serious matter to win the trust of any horse. Horses have a special God-given sense that lets them know if you're afraid of them. They also can sense your demeanor. A silly, goofy rider might get launched into cyberspace without his computer or get thrown right into his neighbor's small kitchen garden.
The proper riding duds are very important. Jeans, or riding pants, and boots are not just "flashy." They are practical. The saddle and stirrups have rough spots of leather that can rub your legs in an uncomfortable way if your bare skin is against those parts. Also, steel-toed boots are a must. You'll only know that after a horse steps on your foot once or twice. Zowie! Squoosh little toesies bigtime! And then, there's the issue of wearing a hard hat. Falling off a horse can kill you if you crack your head off the road. Why not let the hard hat crack off the road instead of your skull.
Now, how do you get to win that humongous fur friend on your side, who will WANT to take you on a nice nature walk through the woods?
Approach the horse quietly and slowly from the front. Let him smell you and look you over real good. A small chunk of apple or a sugar cube is a sure way to win him over. Hold your hand perfectly flat and still, and let him nibble the tidbit off your palm. His nuzzle is warm and fuzzy, AND slobbery, but, hey! If you're a horse lover, you won't mind at all. Next, pet the horse and talk to him, not necessarily with a western drawl. When you mount the horse, sit tall in the saddle with your knees slightly bent and your toes pointed slightly upward in the stirrups. Do NOT squeeze your legs. If the horse is well??-trained, he just might take off before you're even seated in the saddle the correct way. Do NOT pull on the reins. That's a sure signal for your horse to either back or rear up, and you'll find yourself on your behind on the ground in another unwelcome surprise.
The best way to learn how to ride is to have someone hold onto your horse's bridle and walk with you in a small corral. Once you learn to use the reins properly, you can try it on your own. By the way, there are two distinct ways of reining a horse, English and western, which, of course, accompanies the two distinct riding styles. (Those riding styles you can check online at any horse facts sites and study the differences in the two.) When you've mastered controlling your horse in the paddock, you can move on to the fenced-in pasture. Then you'll soon be brave enough to try trotting.
After hours of learning "Speed Number Two," then you'll be ready to try your hand at a controlled gallop with your horse. What an exciting moment it is to feel your horse charging across the field and the wind blowing in your face. Now, this is not all going to happen in three hours. Three weeks to several months of lessons or steady work with your horse will finally produce a confident riding team with you holding the reins and your horse in full obedience to your command. And, once you learn to ride a horse, it's the same as learning to ride a bike. You'll never forget.
When you become a skilled rider, any horse you mount will immediately know that you respect him and know how to ride him with confidence and pride. All he needs are your calm gestures and words of encouragement, and you'll both enjoy the time you spend together on the dusty trail. If you get your horse facts straight, you'll be known as a horse lover who can really ride!

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Why A Mobile Field Shelter Is The Best Option For Your Horse

Why A Mobile Field Shelter Is The Best Option For Your Horse


When keeping a horse or pony, one of the most important things is to have somewhere for them to stay dry, especially in the rainy months, or over the winter. With a large field, the centerpiece in their eyes of the field will be where they stay - during their time in the field, the shelter will become their own home in a way - so it's important to take care and attention of where your horses are spending the majority of their time.
While you'll probably invest in a field shelter, you have options when it comes to making your decision - the most important of which is to decide whether you want your shelter to be moveable or not. A standard field shelter is less expensive, essentially being simply a shed with the front missing, allowing the horses to easily walk in and out of the shelter. However, it has its downsides, which is where the additional cost of a mobile field shelter comes into its own. While they might be more expensive, in the long run, you're sure to see the benefits.
Over the Winter and through Spring and Autumn, depending on where you live, the weather can often become extremely cold and wet. With ground around the shelter being used more often than other areas of the field, with a high level of rainfall, or a sharp frost, the ground can easily become waterlogged or get frozen solid.
As such, the ground is like it is isn't really suitable for horses to live around. The last thing you want is for a horse to trip and fall on either waterlogged or frozen ground, potentially causing injury and an expensive veterinary bill.
This is where a mobile field shelter comes into its own. With a standard shelter, you might have to keep a watchful eye on the horses, and just make do with it. With a mobile field shelter, you don't need to have your horses suffer the ground being in such poor condition. Simply strap the metal framework to the tow bar of a suitable 4x4 vehicle, and away you go. Mobile field shelters have the framework which is designed to be moved easily - despite being made often of steel, the corners of the framework are cornered off, allowing the frame to slide up and over bumps and hills with no problem whatsoever.
Therefore simply drive your mobile field shelter to an area of the field which is usually less often used, where the ground is less trampled and likely to be in much better condition. Once there, your horses will be happy to accept it as their new home and can get on with enjoying their surroundings.

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Welsh Slate - Equestrian Gifts

Welsh Slate - Equestrian Gifts





Welsh slate is a very durable material and because of this, has been in use since the Iron Age as baking stones and general tools and implements for the home. During the industrial revolution, the importance of Welsh Slate was brought home with its various uses for building materials including Welsh slate roofs. It became one of the core products from Wales, rivaled only by coal. Welsh Slate is mined in Gwynedd, Denbighshire, Montgomery, and Pembrokeshire. Whilst in modern times it has been somewhat taken over by materials that are cheaper to produce, it is still a very important industry.
Slate was used in the 1800's for decoration inside people's homes. It is not distorted by heat and because of this it became used for many other applications including water tanks, lintels, snooker tables, steps, doorposts, fencing and even blackboards and writing slates for schools. Slate's resistance to acid makes it ideal for items such as workbenches in many laboratories and factories. It is also commonly used as domestic paving and many varied examples of this can be seen in gardens up and down the country.
Welsh Slate is now used for household ornaments, including clocks, coasters and fridge magnets, with scenes of animals and wildlife printed on them. I am sure that innovative designers will continue to find more applications and this, in turn, will help protect an industry that over the years has suffered a sharp decline. Cottage industries help protect rural communities and to see a traditional raw material put to use in this way is great for keeping these traditional industries alive, preserving jobs and local communities.
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Article Submitted On February 11, 2011

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Unusual Uses of Horses and Ponies

There is a very unusual and loving relationship between every horse lover and his horse. Horses and ponies are well known for their immense power as well as attractive build's. They are very sensitive and intelligent animals which can be easily domesticated as well as befriended. Used for a variety of purposes horses and ponies are helpful in various riding as well as driving purposes. These have been domesticated since ancient times and these animals have been constantly evolving biologically. Their fame has become larger, their bones have developed and their strength has increased over time. The various usual and unusual facts related to horses have been discussed briefly below.

Temperament of horses and their intelligence: the temperament of the horses is generally one of the most famous traits associated with these animals. Some horses can be docile and can be easily trained. Others may have a very wild and volatile temperament. For instance Arabic horses are one of the most temperamental horses in the whole world. They are attentive as well as curious animals which react to any situation with either fight or flight behaviour. Horses are generally friendly companions once you train them and regularly spend time with them. Generally ponies are quite, more intelligent and stable in their temperament. Horses are intelligent animals which can perform both simple as well as complex tasks with great ease. A good training, and an efficient trainer can enhance their intelligence and also keep their impulsive and instinctive behaviour under control. Generally the cold-blooded horses such as ponies show greater intelligence compared to other varieties such as warm blooded and hot-blooded horses.

Sports: One of the types of sports where this animal performs splendidly is equestrian. Equestrian sports have their roots in the army training which subjugated both the rider as well as the horse or pony to get acquainted with their flexibilities and balance. Horse racing is one of the most famous sports in the world with immense amount of money being splurged on the winning horses. This has in origins in the medieval years when people used to wager money on horses.There are various sports played with the help of horses and ponies such as Rodeo, Polo, and show jumping There are plenty of horse shows which takes place around the world depicting the skills of these animals. They are even the best escape for any movie heroes in Hollywood and regional movies when all hell breaks loose.

Providing Therapy: Horses and ponies are also used to provide therapy which is known as Hippotherapy. This therapy is beneficial for people with mental as well as physical disabilities. People who have cerebral Palsy, Autism, Severe injuries to the brain and Speech problems can get help from Hippotherapy. Horses are helpful as riding help in activating those muscles of the body which has been lying dormant for a long time. This can be done with assistance from a trained medical practitioner and a therapeutic experienced rider.

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The Economics of Horse Racing

Horse racing is not known as the "Sport of Kings" for nothing. Owning a race horse has always been traditionally reserved for those who are in the highest rungs of the financial ladder. Depending on pedigree, conformation, age and other market factors a horse could cost anywhere from $40,000 USD to $80,000 USD. And this is just the initial cash outlay. This is why in the last few decades of the sport, aside from the extremely wealthy, those who cannot own a race horse by themselves have formed partnerships or syndicates so they can purchase their own race horses.

Indeed, race horse ownership can be prohibitively expensive. Let's take a closer look at the other expenses that can be incurred from owning and training a Thoroughbred for racing.

Depending on where a horse is trained or who trains the horse, a day rate that covers the cost of feeding, boarding and the trainer's fee could range from $25 to as high as $80 depending on the track you put your horse in. The larger the track, the more expensive the rates are going to be. Add in veterinary care and farrier (horseshoer) fees and that will cost you an average of $200 monthly. And it's not just humans who get their occasional dose of rest and relaxation. Equines need them too, and this can up your cost to about $20 per day.

Factor in breaking in expenses, mortality insurance that can cost a little over $1,000, a Liability & Workers Compensation Insurance, vanning and stakes entry fees, you can understand why keeping a yearling and training it to race at a mid-level race track could run close to $20,000. For major race tracks all over North America, these initial annual costs could run to as high as $35,000. If you're training a regular race horse, the cost could rise up substantially as well.

Of course, the fees that you pay from the purse earnings after your horse has won a race are entirely another set of expenses all together.

Indeed, owning a racehorse really costs money. It is no wonder then, that horse racing is viewed as an elite sport.

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Your Pocket And The Right Saddle

One of the most important issues for a rider to consider is choosing the right saddle for her/his horse. As the horse speaks for the owner so does a saddle speaks for the horse. Saddles come in various styles, shape and color. The question is which kind of saddle to prefer when you are buying one.There are companies that have standardized themselves in the saddle production industry. There are many factors we should consider before we buy the saddle.

There are many kind of Western Saddles for sale and various kind of English Saddles for sale that come in all price ranges, with starting price as low as 100$ and there are saddles as costly as 10,000$. So the first factor is the budget of the owner. Remember keeping a horse and its maintenance is a laborious and expensive task. An owner spends from training to riding a handsome amount. So saddles no matter whether English Saddles or Western Saddles must be chosen keeping the other expenditures in mind. If you are a big spender and can afford products of these highly prestigious brands then these are your best options they don't compromise for quality and that's why the charges for the product whose basic material cost is in hundreds of dollars reach a price limit of thousands. When it comes to minute details and designs these brands are incomparable.

This doesn't implies that your horse that deserves the best of saddles in look and quality should be content with just ordinary saddles because your budget is a little controlled or you are interested in spending on other important things. Now, the horse owners have an opportunity to buy the saddles that are more than just good in quality and appearances in incredibly low prices. There are saddles manufacturers that sell these saddles that compete with big and established brands. These manufacturers provide the horse people with good value for their money. Saddles worth thousands are half price and in most cases even less than half the price. The resale values of these Western Saddles are also good. Stallion tack inc. is one famous brand for these saddles.

Some manufacturing brands that are emerging have varieties of saddle for sale in retail and in whole-sale. Their collection includes all kind of quality Western Saddles and English Saddles. These people are reaching directly to their customers using the modern medium of selling and buying on platforms as basic and prevalent as eBay, Amazon etc. Now the horse lovers can buy these good saddles from these manufacturers and the money saved can be spent on the horse or go down as savings. The best thing about these deals are that apart from being low in prices these saddles always have something unique to offer in their designs. These under-priced goods are manufactured keeping in mind the needs of the horse and the rider. There look compete with other high price equine product counterparts.

The last option for buying a Saddle is buying the used ones. People around the world sell their used saddles and this gives them variety of options at low price range. Most of these Western Saddles are in very good condition for using them and the buyers are most of the time satisfied.

Apart from the money spent, time taken the most important is the efforts and pain taken in the process of maintaining a horse. So love it, Care it and pride owning it.

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UK Driving License Rules for Horseboxes and Trailers

The UK Driving License Requirements for Towing a Horse Trailer, or Driving a Horsebox

The legal requirements from the DVLA rules determining who can tow a horse trailer or drive a horsebox, are pretty complicated! They are mainly dependant on when you passed your driving license, with people passing in 1996 or earlier being legally able to do a lot more. This means, for us youngsters, that we have to take additional tests.

In order to simplify these rules, I'll split the horseboxes/trailers into 3 groups:

1. Can I tow a Horse Trailer? -

Did you get your driving license before 1st January 1997?

If the answer is 'Yes', then you're fine to drive any vehicle/trailer combo up to 8.25 tonnes. This will cover almost every horse trailer/vehicle!

If the answer is 'No', then you may need to pass an additional test to upgrade from a category B license to a category B+E license. To find out if you need to take the extra test, you need to know:
The unladen weight of your towing vehicle (A)The MAM (Maximum Authorised Mass) of your towing vehicle (B)The MAM of your trailer (C)

You can find out these specifications from either your vehicle/trailer's guidebook or from the manufacturer.

Rules:
Towing vehicle's MAM must be less than 3500kgs (B < 3500kg)The trailer's MAM must be less than the vehicle's unladen weight (C < A)The trailer's MAM + the vehicle's MAM must be less than 3500kgs (B + C < 3500kg)

If you break any of these rules, then you will need to upgrade your license to gain category B+E. Go to the DVLA website for more information on this test and how to book it. At the time of writing, this test costs ?115 (?141 on an evening or weekend).

2. Can I drive a 3.5 tonne Horsebox? -

If the MAM of the horsebox is 3500kg (3.5 tonnes) or less, then you can drive it with a regular car license (category B).

3. Can I drive a 7.5 tonne Horsebox? -

Did you get your driving license before 1st January 1997?

If the answer is 'Yes', then you should have category C1 on your license and you are able to drive a horsebox with a MAM of 7500kgs (7.5 tonnes) or less.

If the answer is 'No', then you will need to pass a LGV (light goods vehicle) test to get a category C1 on your license. Category C1 enables you to drive vehicles from 3.5 tonnes to 7.5 tonnes.

NB. To drive vehicles larger than 7.5 tonnes, you need a HGV (category C) license.

To get a category C1 provisional license, you need to have a doctor complete a Medical Examination Form (D4). The cost of this assessment varies depending on the doctor, but will be approx ?100. You can download this form from the DVLA website. You need to send this completed medical form, plus an application form (D2) to the DVLA, along with your license (both the paper and photocard parts). You will then need to take a theory and a practical test. Again, refer to the DVLA website for the test fees. You can access the relevant DVLA pages via the TipsandBits website, click here.

Hope this helps to explain the rules!

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The Ultimate Superfood for Horses

By Madeleine Innocent Madeleine Innocent
Level: Platinum

Madeleine is a natural health consultant, specialising in homeopathy. She treats both people and animals. She is as passionate about natural, wholesome food as she ...

When looking for the ultimate superfood for horses, you need to consider several factors. Just buying any old food or supplement will not necessarily be in your horses best interest. You need to know why you are doing what you are doing. And what is available, behind all the hype.

So let's look at why you need to consider a superfood for your horse in the first place.

With the over use of artificial fertilisers and pesticides and other chemicals, the soil in most parts of the world is dying. Yet it is only a vibrant, living and healthy soil that can deliver the nutrients, all in a perfect and natural balance, to the plants that grow in it. And it is these plants that impart their nutrients to horses.Without a balanced source of nutrients that occur naturally, many ailments occur, from the most mild to chronically serious ones.Synthetic nutrients cannot be properly absorbed, not the way naturally occurring ones are. At best, synthetic nutrients pass straight through the system, unused. At worst, they can slowly build up in places they have no business to be.Synthetic nutrients are all in isolation. Yet nature works by nutrients combining to give a perfect balance. No one nutrient can work on its own.

If the grass or hay that horses need in abundance is deficient in nutrients due to modern farming methods, you need to supplement their diet to retain good health. Although organic paddocks can supply a more balanced nutrition to the grazing animals, this does depend on the natural fertility of the soil, and the performance you require from the horse. If the commonly available supplements are not adequately filling this gap, what other alternatives are there?

Blue-green algae is the most nutritious food known.People who take this natural supplement regularly experience a jump in energy.The best algae contains 60% complete protein. Complete protein means it contains the eight essential amino acids animals need to thrive. Protein is important for all animals, particularly performance ones.Blue-green algae is the richest source of beta carotene, the precursor to vitamin A which horses need in abundance, to maintain good health.Blue-green algae contains a rich variety of essential vitamins and minerals that are deficient in most soils.

However, not all blue-green algae is equal. Algae takes up whatever is in the water, be it good or bad. Obviously you don't want to give your horses a dose of algae that is absorbing toxic chemicals in polluted waterways, or algae that is grown in the polluted oceans, or algae that is farmed with fertilisers, as this will merely exacerbate the problem.

Luckily, there remains a naturally occurring, unfarmed blue-green algae, fed by mineral rich mountain streams, that is rich in all the essential nutrients for lasting good health. The ultimate superfood for horses in concentrated form.

Madeleine Innocent is a full time natural health consultant (homeopath) based in Perth, Western Australia. She treats both people and animals. Homeopathy has taught her that the cause of ill health should always be explored before any treatment is considered. Diet is one area that is frequently overlooked. For more information, visit: Superfood for Horses

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Madeleine_Innocent

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Article Submitted On: March 11, 2011

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What Makes a Good Race Horse?

Horse racing is one of the most spectacular sports there is. Dubbed as the Sport of Kings, the sight of gracefully strong Thoroughbreds flying through the race track with such amazing speed is a sight to behold. Indeed, the horse is the main actor on the race track, and the primary reason why people want to get a race horse.

But choosing the best horse to buy for the race track isn't an easy task and those new in the business only have a vague idea of what to look for. For the untrained eye, one horse looks like any other horse, save perhaps for a difference in color.

There are a few guidelines that can help those who want to buy a race horse choose the one who has the most potential to dominate the track. One of the first things to look for in a race horse is its height, measured in "hands" (one hand is about 4 inches). A thoroughbred should stand at an average of 16 hands from its feet to its withers. Its heart weighs 10 pounds, although some particularly famous racehorses have been known to have hearts that weigh as much as 20 pounds! Its frame should be balanced and in proportion. His neck, back and hip must appear to be of equal length and his frame should carry his muscle mass well. A horse who isn't balanced is more prone to injuries.

Check for alertness. A race horse who exhibits this characteristic has his ears pointing and moving in all directions. His eyes are big and bright and not sunken or bulging nor too close together. This also goes with the fact that the ideal racehorses also have large nostrils to allow for serious fuel intake of the body. Close observation of its temperament will tell if he is keen and alert and aware of what is happening around him.

Look at the feet since these are the parts of the body that has to withstand the constant impact of racing. Misshapen or cracked feet aren't too good a trait for race horses. Moreover, good racehorses have short, straight and strong cannon bones with knees that are proportional to the leg bones. Look for shoulders that exhibit good muscle structure that slope slightly. Check that they have muscular necks and have room enough for breathing. Needless to say, the back hips and buttocks of a horse should also be big, bold and powerful.

Always remember that these conformations give you a clue to what racehorses are supposed to do: To run fast on the race track and win. You may not get these subtle differences easily, but with time and practice, you're sure to develop a keen eye on choosing the perfect race horse.

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Tips For Choosing Horse Fences

If you own one horse or many horses, the most important consideration is keeping them safely contained within some form of boundary or paddock fencing to prevent them wandering off and causing damage to themselves or other peoples property. Horse fences should not only keep your horses securely contained within your property, but should not pose a risk if they try to push the boundaries.

There are many different fence types available, some are more suitable to contain horses than others. Ultimately your choice will be affected by your budget, whether you want a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary solution, by the terrain that you plan to fence off, and the size and nature of the horses you wish to contain.

Wooden fences are probably the most traditional for enclosing paddocks. Wood is hard wearing, can be readily cut to size, and is simple and easy to erect, just nail the cross boards onto the uprights that are sunk into the ground.

Interlocking wooden post and rail fences are very simple to erect as they require no nails or bolts. This also makes them extremely safe as there is nothing that a horse can get snagged on. They are extremely sturdy, and aesthetically pleasing.

An alternative to wood is vinyl boards. These are more expensive initially, but as they will not rot or be eaten by insects, will require little maintenance in the long run.

Wire fences are also fairly common, but it is best to use wire mesh with a small hole size to prevent a horse's foot from getting stuck in the fence. Strand wire is not recommended as horses can easily get entangled and panic, causing injury to themselves. Barbed wire is not suitable for horses as it is extremely hazardous and can cause serious bodily injury by merely brushing up against it. To avoid costly vet bills it should be avoided at all costs.

A very quick and cost effect alternative method of containment is electrified tape. Electrified equine tape comes in various thicknesses. Although more expensive, the thicker 40 mm tape is recommended for semi-permanent use due to its visibility. The thinner 12 mm tape is much cheaper, and is suitable for temporary enclosures. An energizer that can be battery, mains or solar powered, is required to electrify the tape, which is thread through a series of intermediate insulators attached to wooden or steel posts. Special fittings can be purchased to construct electrified gates. Electrified fences can be semi-permanent as when attached to fixed posts, or temporary using movable plastic tread-ins that hold the tape firmly with built-in clips. They are suitable for strip grazing, and can be very handy when travelling with horses, or attending shows where you will be camping overnight.

Regardless of the fencing option that you choose, it needs to be high enough to contain your biggest horse or highest jumper, and low enough to contain your smallest pony. The gap between the cross bars in a post and rail fence needs to be small enough to prevent a horse from getting its head through, to prevent injury to the animal and possible damage to the fence.

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The Run for the Roses: Kentucky Derby

Perhaps one of the most prestigious and the most well-attended horse races of all time is the Kentucky Derby. Also known as the Run for the Roses to refer to the rich blanket of 554 roses given to the winner of the race, horses at the Kentucky Derby race for a distance of 2 km or 1 ? miles at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky, U.S.A. Also hailed as the "Fastest Two Minutes in Sports", the Kentucky Derby is held every first Saturday of May and is the first leg of the United States Triple Crown of Thoroughbred Racing. The Preakness and the Belmont Stakes follow the Run for the Roses respectively. A horse needs to win all three stakes to win the Triple Crown.

One of the oldest Thoroughbred races in North America, the Kentucky Derby was started in 1875 with Aristides ridden by jockey Oliver Lewis emerging as the champion. One of the notable winners of this Derby was Secretariat, ridden by Ron Turcotte in 1973 with a time of 1:59:40 seconds. This time remains unsurpassed even today and still holds the record as the fastest run in the Derby.

Some jockeys who have made Kentucky Derby history include Eddie Arcaro and Bill Hartack. They are the only two jockeys who have won this race five times. Bill Shoemaker has four wins to his name, although he could have bagged a fifth had he not committed a judgment error and stood up the irons too early in 1957. This caused Bill Hartack riding on Iron Liege to overtake him and win the race. Now, Calvin Borel is making a name for himself in the Run for the Roses as the "Borail" for his uncanny ability to squeeze his horse in between immense traffic for upsetting "come from behind" victories. He bagged the prize in 2007 when he rode Street Sense. He won back-to-back in 2009 and 2010 riding on Mine That Bird and Super Saver, respectively.

Betters and gamblers look forward to the Kentucky Derby since it offers them a wide array of choices for their wagers. In addition to the usual bets, they can also try out their luck at the Trifecta and the Superfecta in this race.

Mint julep served on a souvenir glass with names of previous derby winners is the traditional drink of the Kentucky Derby.

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Trick-Training Animals Lessons With Lukas, the World's Smartest Horse: Rewards and Punishment

"You're going to spoil that horse!" If I've heard that accusation once, I've heard it a thousand times. Yet, their horses grab for fingers while Lukas waits patiently and motionless for his carrot sliver an inch from his muzzle, and gently scoops proffered treats from the hands of toddlers. As with every other lesson, patience and care is instilled while encouraging positive and productive associations.

Rewards are a book in themselves. Because space is limited in an article, I just want to be sure that you're clear on a few things before we go on. For Lukas, I use carrot slivers and a bit of Senior Integrity, but it's important to find something that your horse will enjoy working for, and with some animals I don't use any food at all.

Now be careful, this is where most trainers get stuck - they continue to reward for the same initial, minimal effort which actually un-trains the behavior. The animal expects and receives a steady treat regardless of the effort, and then does less and less.

Think of giving your kids a set allowance for doing certain chores, but not checking on them or monitoring them in any way; pretty soon they'll be out skateboarding instead of earning their money.

Initially, treats are given on a steady, consistent basis to strengthen the associations and then as understanding increases, the treats are switched to an intermittent routine - say, every second or every fifth acceptable response. Gradually and eventually, we move to a random pay off - the unpredictability keeps the animal guessing and trying. Sometimes, I'll also give a jack-pot - a large treat - to show my appreciation for an outstanding effort.

Of course, throughout, we insist on courtesy and manners from the horse - I never allow grabbing or jostling. The anticipation of the treat is a reward in itself. Let me give you a cute example of this with one of Lukas' poses. He holds his head immobile, completely in frame on the vertical while I count: one... two... seven... forty... three! As I'm counting, he's nickering the entire time - he knows what's coming. And what do you think he does as soon as he gets his treat? That's right, back to his pose for another game. I sometimes think he's proud of teaching me to count!

Punishment - I suppose there are some rare times when force is necessary: outright aggression or a safety issue might qualify. In general though, I don't think punishment is an effective or helpful tool. That's not to say that I don't set firm limits and have definite parameters for acceptable behaviors - I certainly do, at all times. I just don't believe in being made to react and constantly chase after repeated mistakes with worsening consequences.

I'd much rather prevent problems than fix them and I'll use a warning signal (i.e. uh-uh) to remind others when they're getting off track. This is a fair and clear arrangement that works well for me and my friends - both human and animal. From what I've seen, punishment results in unpredictable and volatile outcomes and animals don't naturally reason in a backward fashion. Why, just look at our own people problems: getting into debt, not exercising, smoking - even we don't find negative consequences a deterrent, yet we expect our animals to put it all together.

In summary, we're looking for what we want, ignoring and re-directing what we don't want. In this way, our lessons remain fun and beneficial.

Copyright 2011 Karen Murdock is a retired psychiatric nurse, who has been fixing problem horses for over 30 years. Owner of PlayingWithLukas.com. She uses a combination of shaping techniques, a specialized version of clicker training and positive reinforcement. Her unique approach uses games and play as a way to connect and bond with horses to develop confidence, increase focus, improve performance as well as build willingness and trust. All of her services and proceeds go to benefit the horses.

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The Choctaw Pony

By the 1700's the horses brought by the Spanish to the Americas found their way to the Choctaw American Indian tribe. The gentle and kind horses were small enough to be considered a pony but they were incredibly strong and resilient. They were treasured and embraced within the Choctaw culture and valued so highly that some owners would be buried with their ponies upon their death.

When the US government set out to remove the Choctaw people from their land they also tried to destroy as many of the ponies as they could because they realized the ponies represented freedom to the Choctaw people. Through systematic efforts the ponies were almost driven to extinction but a handful was hidden, allowing them to survive. Thanks to a few dedicated people who protected and started carefully breeding the ponies again they can once more be found although still in small numbers with most Choctaw pony ranches found in our southern states.

Current DNA testing on modern Choctaw ponies has proven that their blood lines are thought to be the purest of all the breeds in this country because from the beginning the Choctaw were very careful about how the ponies were bred. They kept an oral and later a written history of all their bloodlines making them the direct decedents of the original horses that came from Spain in the 1500's.

Choctaw ponies today are much as they were hundreds of years ago. They are as swift to race a barrel as their ancestors were hunting deer or as brave facing a jump as they were ridden into battle. They are as beloved by the families that own them now as they were when they were an important part of a Choctaw village.

It is important that they survive as a breed not just because they are strong, gentle, intelligent and beautiful but because they are a living legacy, proof of a proud, powerful and vibrant culture!

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Want to Attend a Horsemanship Clinic But End Up Missing Out Because You Psych Yourself Out?

Are you sitting on the fence of horse clinic participation? Don't let your fear of failure or looking stupid in front of others let you miss out on success with your horse!

If you are anything like I used to be, you heard about an upcoming horsemanship clinic and you got all excited about it. You put the flyer in your pocket and were determined that this time you were going to actually participate. The deadline for payment draws near and you psyched yourself out.

*You start thinking about not being as good as others in the class.

*You worry that your horse's behavior will make you look stupid or embarrass you.

*You worry about your riding skills and how you bounce too much in the saddle.

*Perhaps you are carrying a couple extra pounds and you don't want the younger thinner ladies in the class to make you feel inadequate because you don't like how you look.

*You're afraid you won't "get it" or that you won't be able to keep up with the class. All these things are real feelings. All of them are natural. All of them are self sabotaging. But all of them can be changed!

There are a couple of really important things to remember here. First of all, even the best horsemanship clinicians had to start somewhere. You can bet that they have wrapped a few ropes around their own heads, tripped or whacked themselves a time or two while learning. You can bet they've been bucked off,
bitten, pushed or perhaps even been stepped on or run over by a horse. Now, they may have started earlier in their horsemanship and learning than we did. But by no means has anyone fallen out of bed and were just 'good' with horses.

Way too much needs to be learned. Second, horses are unpredictable. The best trained horse can do something out of character. I've seen the quietest horses in my experience, all the sudden react to something that we would have bet the farm they wouldn't have a problem with. Third, riding horses is not easy. Anyone who says they are 'natural' in my opinion has a faulty sense of self. Perhaps they have natural balance which makes them a little more athletic. But that's about it.

Look around, anyone that rides horses has things to work on. Whether it is body softness, understanding the dynamics of movement and balance, rein positions, feel, energy... the list goes on. Just because a person can sit on a horse, doesn't mean they understand them either. Remember that the really good ones didn't just get that way. It just means that by the time you crossed paths with them, they were at a higher level in their learning, is all. Forth, even the beautiful people have problems. That is why they are in the clinic. Finally, any good horsemanship clinician will recognize what the individual participants need most and do whatever necessary to make sure they get that ingredient important for their personal progression before the end of the clinic.

One of my biggest inspirations was a woman in her late 50s. She was in a horsemanship clinic with me years ago. She was overweight, thought she was too old, and to add to that, she had fallen from her horse and broke her back a few years before I had met her. She loved her horses dearly, but she had all these factors against her. This lady and I had participated in clinics a couple of times. She never quit. She kept coming back. And the day she finally cantered her horse for the first time since her accident, there wasn't a dry eye in the place. Since then, she's had two hip replacements, bought a couple of young horses and rides them in organized trail rides. She's dropped all sorts of weight and continues to put herself out there to learn and become better for her horses.

Don't be a victim of "stink'n think'n." You deserve and owe it to yourself and to your horse to get out there and learn. Books and videos are great, but nothing compares to hands on face to face with a horsemanship clinician. It's never to late. So put your anxieties aside, climb over the fence and go
find out how much fun it is to be in a clinic where learning and progressing in horsemanship happens!

Terri Jordan a native of Wisconsin currently living in central MA is moving to The Natural Gait, located in Harpers Ferry, Iowa in April 2011. There Terri will become the resident trainer, clinician and instructor for TNG's Equine Facility.

Terri's Get Back To Basics teachings are designed to help owners understand their horses based on where the horse is at in his foundation development. http://www.thenaturalgait.com/

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What Is The Best Way To Saddle A Horse?

The best way to saddle a horse is to use a western style thick felt pad, felt being good for use any time you have got a horse that may be getting into a sweaty situation. This will definitely help wick that off. But since you would also have a little bit of color in your day today, go ahead and add one of these blue Navajo blankets just to pit some fun and color to it. Always remember that you never want to use just the thin pad of this type because that would not offer enough protection to the horse.

It is important to line them both up, making sure that the nice clean pad is on top, covering all areas of the felt pad. Then after that, you are going to come and get the saddle, don't forget to make sure that all the parts are hooked up here on their safe keeper so they're not dragging, getting in your way and making it difficult to put this up. Your horse is going to move away, easily for you if you push her just to get enough room to clear.

As you place this saddle on her, you would want to try to do so, so that it's not going to come down hard on her. These saddles can be heavy, it takes a little bit of practice to get that little lift in it to put up there in a way that's easy on the horse. You will know that the placement is correct if you have got plenty of pad in front to protect her. You have got plenty in the back and it's pretty evened out.

After that, you are going to go to the other side and check to make sure that you're happy with it over here as well. Bring down the cinch straps both in the front and the back. Position the saddle just to make it a little bit more even on this side, make sure everything is lying flat free hanging.

Now you are ready to come back around safely going around, if you know your horse well, you should not be concerned so much about being away from her hind quarter. But remember that you would still want to do it in a quiet, safe manner. You are then going to go ahead and begin to cinch this horse up or tighten her girth. Start with the front girth first. You never want to have a horse with only a back girth in place because if she were to shake or move quickly, then this saddle rolled would be suspended scaring her and probably causing her to run off. Start by putting the cinch strap from the front to the back, continue to wrap it until it runs out of available strap. It is best to use the buckle system but most found out over the years working with students that if you buckle their saddle in, it is going to remain much tighter throughout the day.

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Tips For Buying Good Hay

We have almost made it through the winter months and the stock pile of hay might be looking a little thin. As spring approaches the alfalfa will be growing and sooner than we think it will be time to stock pile the hay again. When those bales of hay start rolling off the flatbed here are some simple tips and tricks to look for to make sure you are purchasing quality forage for your livestock or horses.

1. Hay should smell fresh; like the type of hay that it is (example: alfalfa hay, oat hay, etc.)
2. Hay should be green in color (not brown).
3. Free of weeds, wires or any foreign objects (hard wire disease in horses or cattle can be life threatening)
4. Free of mold. Mold can grow on hay that was too wet when it was baled. Ingested mold spores can pose serious lung damage to animals.
5. Seed heads should be enclosed and leaves intact. If the hay has gone to seed, it was probably too dry when it was baled.
6. Check the moisture content. Farmers have gauges to test the moisture content, so just ask what that reading was. Horse hay should have a moisture content of 10-17% and a crude protein of 10%.
7. Check the Acid Detergent Fiber (ADF) value. Hay with an ADF value of 30-35% is good for horses. The lower the value, the more digestible the hay is. Avoid hay that has over a 35% ADF value.
8. Quality hay forage is usually the mainstay of a horse or livestock diet (about 2/3 of their nutritional diet); so try to buy your hay as early as possible to be able to select the best forage possible. Waiting until summer or fall may mean that you are getting the leftover product that the farmers had a hard time selling because of its poor quality.

Having a good relationship with your local hay farmers can help ensure you are purchasing a quality product for your animals. However, it is still a good idea to follow the simple tips outlined above to make sure you are getting the best quality forage possible.

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Trick-Training Basics

Everyone is a trainer. Every minute of every day you're either training yourself or training others, even if it's just to maintain a habit.

Let's take a closer look at that, because it's important. Your alarm goes off in the morning, and what do you do? If you're anything like me, you hit the snooze - maybe more than once. Then, too rushed for a real breakfast, you settle for a doughnut instead. Back home after a long day, and if you're a little distracted, you might forget and let the dog jump on you, or neglect to acknowledge a thoughtful gesture by your husband or kids.

Every one of these incidents serves to either reinforce or eliminate the behavior it's linked to. Reinforce something enough, it becomes a habit. That's why your dog jumps on your company. Act to eliminate a behavior often enough, and your kids will never again take out the trash without being threatened. What we repeatedly do creates what we and others around us become.

You've heard of self-fulfilling prophecies? The fact is, we determine our world and what's in it, for the most part. Now you might be thinking this is really out there. Maybe this training thing works on animals, but I'm above any sort of conditioning like that. As a psychiatric nurse for the last 25 years, I can assure you that not only does this system work on both animals and people, it can produce immediate, lasting and beneficial effects without others even realizing their involvement!

In my work on acute-care, locked-down units, I've certainly witnessed some dramatic events. I've watched as small issues, which should have blown over, turned into huge crises with unfortunate outcomes: unnecessary violence, injuries, over-medicating, and often a worsened situation.

On the other hand, a few select staff could turn around even the most desperate circumstances almost single-handedly. Early on I saw the advantages of eliciting cooperation in a kind manner, using gentle and fair methods. I also became more aware of the effects my body position, gestures, voice, eye contact and attitude had on outcomes. Allowing choices, maintaining dignity and promoting positive results increasingly became a part of my repertoire.

Trick-Training Techniques

The Trick-Training program has three main parts: Shaping, Clicker Training and Positive Reinforcement. Shaping is the overall process or the basic foundation; clicker training uses an indicator (a click or other sound) that tells the animal the desired behavior has occurred; and positive reinforcement in the form of treats energizes your animal and makes him more willing to participate.

Shaping is a way to introduce a behavior in a gentle and subtle manner. It teaches small behaviors by growing and connecting them. In order to shape a behavior, you have 2 choices: you can create it and/or capture it. Simply by paying close attention to the animal's responses, you'll be able to identify those behaviors you might want to use in the future. Creating and capturing resemble a steep staircase - the trials and attempts are the flat steps and as the animal catches onto the game, learning rises sharply.

Clicker training impressed me from the start, but there were a few disadvantages I could see: I didn't want to carry anything around in my hands, it wasn't conducive to riding (horses), and there always seemed to be a time-lapse between the response and click, from what I could see. So instead, I substituted sounds - words and whistles - for my click. You can choose whatever works best for you and your trainee.

Positive reinforcement is whatever irresistible treat you choose. You'll need to pair the click of your choice with positive reinforcement - food usually - so the animal learns to work for your click. And the click promises food, so be careful what you choose. It should be a favorite treat for your trainee, but not something that will take too long to eat. Keep in mind, too, that you must give a treat every time you click. If you repeatedly, accidentally click and say "Good" for example, and no food is forthcoming, you're weakening the link and lessening the student's motivation.

Copyright 2011 Karen Murdock is a retired psychiatric nurse, who has been fixing problem horses for over 30 years. Owner of PlayingWithLukas.com. She uses a combination of shaping techniques, a specialized version of clicker training and positive reinforcement. Her unique approach uses games and play as a way to connect and bond with horses to develop confidence, increase focus, improve performance as well as build willingness and trust. All of her services and proceeds go to benefit the horses.

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Which Is Best - A Leather Bridle or Synthetic?

Choosing a bridle for your horse is an important decision and there are many things to consider when choosing a bridle for your horse. The choice between leather and synthetic is a topic often discussed between horse owners when shopping for a bridle for their horse. There are often some very strong views on this subject; some people would never buy anything but the best quality leather bridles whilst others prefer the ease of cleaning and lightweight design of synthetic bridles. Others can see the benefits of both.

Leather is the traditional material used for making tack for horses, both saddles and bridles. It is considered smart and hard wearing and a good quality leather bridle is always a good investment for any horse owner. The durable nature of leather means that it will last for many years and remain looking smart. If well looked after it will be soft and comfortable for your horse unlike some synthetic materials which can be harsh on sensitive areas of the horse. Leather is considered to make a better quality bridle and if you intend to use your new bridle for showing or competition then a synthetic bridle is not a suitable option in most cases.

Leather does tend to be more expensive than synthetic materials, and combined with the cost of the workmanship involved to produce a quality leather bridle over a synthetic one, this can make a big difference to the amount that you will spend. This being said, it is wise to remember the golden rule when buying horse equipment; always to buy the best quality that you can afford. Whilst you will pay more for a leather bridle it is likely to outlive any synthetic bridle that you buy.

Synthetic bridles on the other hand can be very useful in some cases. For sports such as endurance where lightweight equipment is important synthetic bridles are commonly used. They can also be useful for young horses for the same reason. For those people who don't have time to regularly clean their leather equipment, synthetic materials can be a good solution as they take much less care than leather alternatives and can often be rinsed or brushed clean when they get sweaty or dirty. The nature of synthetic material does mean that it is likely to fray or look tired after a period of time, and especially if you are often washing or rinsing it you might find that it starts to look a little untidy. This won't necessarily compromise the function of the bridle but if you like your horse to look smart when ridden then a good quality leather bridle might be a better option for you.

On the whole, the choice between whether to buy leather or synthetic depends entirely upon how you intend to use your new bridle but it is wise to remember that you always get what you pay for and where possible, try to buy the best quality items that you can afford.

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Why Horse Racing Is Legitimate

There have always been a few questions surrounding the legitimacy of any gambling activity. From lotto to roulette to horse racing, there is always that shred of disbelief that makes some quarters doubt whether the results are really genuine ones. But let me tell you why it's difficult to fix a race.

To start with, horse racing is one of the more closely monitored betting events in the country, and the chances of it being rigged are quite far from reality. Aside from this, it is also governed by their own Jockey Clubs who have their own set of rules. They even have their own stewards who act as the police force of their own ranks. Anything that deviates from what is considered normal is immediately investigated. If other race owners have objections as to the certainty of a particular outcome, they can immediately report it to their own authorities who will conduct an investigation into the matter.

Another reason why it's unlikely that a horse race is engineered is because of modern technology. Several cameras cover the track from all possible angles from the beginning until the end of the race. Officials and other witnesses are also called to testify in case complaints about the running of a race crop up.

Those who say that a horse race is fixed point to the fact that it's easy to substitute a horse for another horse. This couldn't be more wrong! In case you didn't know, each entry in a race has a document, call it a passport if you like, where its markings and other identifying features are written. This is checked against the horse before a race starts to prevent any substitutions.

Finally, no jockey, owner or trainer is seriously going to put his or her name and livelihood at risk. If found guilty for committing serious offenses, they can be banned from racing for life. Now, who would want to rig one single race with such stiff sanctions?

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Various Sizes For Saddles

There are many factors you have to consider before buying the best saddle you can use. There are different kinds of saddles however if your purpose for it is for your own recreation then using the western saddle is the most suitable type. Many people want to know the answer to the question what are the different saddle sizes.

The western saddle is also known as the one fit for riders. This does not mean that it should fit the horse but it means that there should be a slight gap of four inches from the rider's body to the swell. The saddle's rump should on the bottom of its cantle however the rider should not press it too hard. The rump needs to be on the cantle base but it should not be pressed on its back. The fitting of the saddle should also not be so tight and it should not also be so loose. It is suitable for a beginner to have a saddle that is slightly bigger than the smallest kind.

The size of the saddle's seat can be obtained from measuring from the mid part of the cantle to the bottom part of the horn. The dimensions you can get can be anywhere from twelve to seventeen inches. The saddle's sizes increase by a half inch. The typical saddle sizes for young teenagers are twelve to thirteen inches and fourteen inches for the smaller adults. An adult with an average height usually require the saddle size of fifteen inches. The size needed by taller people are sixteen inches or larger.

The varying saddle sizes is the reason that saddles differ in the comfort they give the rider. The saddle's size is not the only factor you have to consider. Another thing you should consider is the depth. A saddle with the right depth should be able to keep the rider in the same position even while doing a very intensive activity. The shallower kind gives the rider more freedom in movement. There are also various styles for the fork. It can be positioned in an angle directed to the rider or in an angle away from the rider. The fork is not just a decoration it can affect the rider's comfort.

Choosing the best saddle for you is not an easy task at all. You have to think of many factors before buying one. You have to give ample time in choosing the one that will give you the most comfort. Having the suitable saddle for you will help you the ride on the horse.

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The Pros and Cons of Traditional Horse Blankets

Rugging a horse up to its eyeballs is acceptable to the modern day horse owner. Keeping our horses clean, dry and with a manageable winter coat is important to those with busy lifestyles, even if this is not the most comfortable for your horse. As an individual, you may deny this, but on the whole, intentionally or not, we do tend to over rug.

Traditional horse blankets are simple and minimalistic compared to the technologically advanced rugs we now use. However, traditional horse blankets have their own advantages. For example, a wool rug or horse blanket such as the Newmarket wool rug, an iconic racing image, is a great deal warmer than some of the cheaper stable rugs available on the market.

Jute lined wool rugs are traditionally styled, and maintain a great deal of functionality. They are ideal for drying your horse after an exercise session in the rain, as they allow air to circulate due to the mesh of the fibres. Often quality leather straps are incorporated, and you do need to ask yourself the question "is it better to invest in longevity and quality or buy cheaply now and replace regularly?" Of course, this is a question you will answer based on your own personal stance, but it is something to really consider when rug shopping.

Modern horse rugs offer amazing benefits and can maintain a perfect-temperature microclimate between the rug and the horse's skin, however in the case of hardy native ponies and horses, is it really necessary to substitute the horse's own temperature regulation and weather protection? It may be that simple, quality horse blankets or rugs could help to combat the cold, but try not to overdo it!

On the other hand, if you own a poor-doing Thoroughbred type, who shivers at the mere sight of a raincloud, a modern, technology-inspired horse rug may well serve you better than a traditional one. As mentioned, traditional wool rugs and horse blankets are very effective at retaining warmth, but some new rugs and blankets do incorporate materials which allow them to be very thin whilst still maintaining a good proportion of heat. These may be a worthwhile investment if you find your horse looks as though he has been rolled up in a gigantic duvet and struggles to move under the pile of well-meaning but hindering wool rugs!

Assess your horse's needs as an individual, and consider the pros and cons of both the traditional style horse blankets, and snazzy modern rugs. Whilst you may be tempted to buy the latest super-inventive technological rug with all the features, it may well be the case that buying one or two quality traditional horse blankets to layer up with will be cost-effective in the long run. Traditional fabrics are often very good quality and offer longevity. As discussed, however, a modern micro-climate rug might greatly improve your horse's wellbeing; it really does come down to what type he is, and common sense. Try and base your rugging strategies on your horse's needs, if it really is too warm, it's not important to rug him up round his ears just to keep him clean!

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The No. 1 Secret to Training Your Trakehner Horse Is Animal Communication!

Are you struggling with a behavior or training problem with your Trakehner? Trakehner horses are spirited, gifted, intelligent athletes. But if you get on the wrong side of your sport horse, regardless of their breed, then things can go bad in a hurry.

If any of these scenarios feel familiar, then you've got a real problem on your hands that may not be easily or quickly resolved through normal training methods or approaches.

* Does your Trakehner horse spook, act skittish or nervous in hand or under saddle?
* Is your horse so heavy in your hands that you think your arms are going to fall off?
* Do they stoically refuse to go forward... or run away with you once they get going?
* Does your Trakehner dressage horse race along with their nose in the air and a hollow back, consistently evading the bit and your hands?
* Does your horse bite or nip at you (or others), or run away when you approach?
* Does your horse kick out, rear up, or strike out at you or others?
* Does your horse refuse to load (or unload) safely in a horse trailer?
* Do they hold their head so high you can't bridle or halter them?
* Does your horse constantly swish their tail or pin their ears under saddle?

If your horse does any of these things, then this is the perfect time to discover why -- by asking your horse directly. The answers may surprise and entertain you, and will always help you grow dramatically in your horsemanship.

Animal communicators are gifted with ability to have an in depth conversation with any animal, including horses. And after working with horses for most of my life and communicating with them professionally for almost 20 years, I've discovered that what the horse owner, rider or trainer thinks is going on is rarely the truth, from the horse's viewpoint.

If you miss the boat on this one, then you will spend a lot of wasted energy, time and money going in the wrong direction in a hurry. You can even wind up being hurt - or your expensive Trakehner can lose their health, their willingness to work with you (their goodwill) or their home... and in the worst cases, lose their life.

What Do You Do With A Horse Who Won't Take Direction?

Most often the trainer or rider blames the horse for the problem, thinking they are just being obnoxious or don't want to perform. They rarely think about their horse experiencing an emotional, mental or physical problem.

Don't blame your horse for their behavior or training problems, or the inability to master a skill. It is time for you to assess what you may be doing wrong and make the appropriate changes to rebalance your relationship.

Your horse knows why they are behaving the way they are and it makes perfect sense to them. Poor communication is at the root of most every issue... and communication is always the key to resolving things.

If you want to have a happy healthy horse who is delighted to see you and work with you, then start here before doing anything else.

Your best horse trainer and riding instructor is not your trainer! It's your horse!

Who knows better than them what is working or not? What hurts or is confusing, and why?

It is the rider and trainer's responsibility to learn to communicate effectively so your horse understands what is
being asked of them and can perform to their best with a willing and happy heart.

Take a moment to open your own mind and heart. Take the time to connect and really listen to them; honor what your horse has been trying to tell you; experience what it is like to be them; learn from their viewpoint; and, invite their feedback or suggestions on how they think you can improve your riding and relationship.

You can get what you need to know straight from your horses' mouth! Communicating with your horse to resolve behavior or training problems will ultimately and quickly strengthen the bond between you and your horse. Instead of fighting with a nightmare, you can begin to enjoy the horse of your dreams.

Val Heart - Internationally known expert animal communicator, teacher, author & master healer, Val is called The Real Dr Doolittle, & Animal Communicator to the Stars. She resolves behavior, training and performance problems, healing you & your animal, & helps with euthanasia. Free AnimalTalk QuickStart Course, The Real Dr Doolittle (podcast) Show now on iTunes! For your Complimentary Happy Animal Assessment Session, call (210) 863-7928, email: contactval@valheart.com visit http://www.valheart.com/

? Copyright Val Heart & Friends LLC. All Rights Reserved.

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Tips on Buying Horse Saddles

Horse riding is one of the most desirable sports in the entire world and its growing popularity it has drawn millions of fans. There are a lot of people who enjoy watching the races and betting on the horses and jockeys have become a common thing. To ride a horse it is imperative that you buy a horse saddle. This is the only way you will be able to ride comfortably.

There are different types available in the market today. You can choose one that suits your style and that you think is comfortable. So the choice really depends on you. You also need to learn how to tie it to the horse. You also need to take the animal into consideration before buying one, because you won't be able to ride it properly unless it is comfortable in what is being put on it.

Make sure that you set a budget before buying one because they can be very expensive to buy one. you need to check out the various types available before you settle on one. this way you will be able to get what you want easily. you will have to take someone help while buying one. this will help you make a better choice.

If you have no idea where to buy one from you can browse through the various websites selling these. you may even get these for the best deals online. All you need to do is shop around a bit and buy one that is right.

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What to Consider When Buying a New Bridle

Finding a bridle to suit the requirements of you and your horse can be difficult when there are so many products available. In order to buy a bridle that best suits your horse and your needs, you firstly need to decide what you need and the style of bridle that you looking for.

Firstly, consider what you will be using the bridle for. What are the main activities that you do with your horse? Do you need something smart for competition or are you looking for something lightweight and durable for long rides or endurance. Do you want something of high quality that will last you for years? Perhaps comfort for your horse is high on your requirement list for your new bridle.

Once you have determined the purpose of your bridle, think about the style of bridle that you are looking for. Consider the ability and character of your horse. Do you need a standard snaffle bridle, with or without a noseband or are you looking for a double bridle? What are your noseband requirements? Do you need a flash or grackle noseband? or just a plain cavesson? Do you need a noseband at all? Perhaps you are looking for something a little flashier with a diamante design for special occasions or maybe you are looking for a bitless bridle?

Thirdly, consider your other requirements. How much money do you have to spend on your new bridle? The amount of money that you have available to buy your new bridle will affect the style and quality of bridle that you can get. Are you looking for something that will wipe clean after a long day riding out, in which case perhaps a synthetic bridle would suit you. Or is it important to you to have a quality leather bridle? You will pay more money for a good quality leather bridle but it is a worthwhile investment if you can afford it as the bridle will likely last you for years and remain looking smart whilst some synthetic items can tend to look tired after a while. For competition and showing, leather is a necessity whilst for other activities, perhaps endurance, where it is important to have lightweight equipment, a synthetic bridle may be a better choice.

Now that you know the style and requirements of the bridle you are looking for you can begin to search for bridles that fit these criteria. Local tack shops might be able to suggest some suitable bridles that fit your budget and requirements or you could try searching the internet. There are many online tack shops that you can order your new bridle from, and the benefit of using the internet is that you can easily shop around to find a good deal and get the best quality that you can for your money. Finally, don't forget the golden rule when buying horse equipment; always to buy the best quality that you can afford. Happy shopping!

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Why Steel Toe Horse Riding Boots Are a Good Idea

If you have been unfortunate enough to have your horse carefully place his hoof onto your foot then you will know how much of an unpleasant experience it is! It is usual if you work with horses to assume that you will occasionally be trodden on. In other industries steel toe cap boots are mandatory where there is a hazard of damage to the feet, but this is not yet the case in the equine industry. This being said, there are a number of manufacturers who understand the importance of toe protection in horse riding boots and have begun to integrate this is into their products.

The truth is that steel toes inside horse riding boots are a sensible idea. It only takes a second to cause a painful injury which, if you are lucky, will only be a nice bruise that will be sore for a few days but could also result in fractured or broken toes. If horses are your livelihood, whether you work with or ride them, a foot injury can cause a very big problem. Trying to handle any horse whilst hopping around with a broken toe or fractured foot is at best difficult and at worst downright dangerous. Furthermore, it is likely that you will require a number of days out of the saddle, or at least on light riding duties as pressure of your feet in the stirrup is going to be painful or impossible. Also, a fracture to the foot could alter the weight distribution across it which will escalate to the entire limb, actually affecting your position in the saddle. If you ride horses for a living, consider the implications of having to take time off work due to such an injury and furthermore, think about the long term damage of a foot injury. Broken toes could become arthritic in later years, or suffer with poor circulation leading to discomfort when working outdoors in the winter.

If you are looking for boots with toe protection for wearing around horses, then it is advisable to buy a pair of boots that are specifically designed for horse riding. This is because there are some slight differences between traditional steel toe capped boots and those used for horse riding. Of course there are some obvious differences, and if you will be wearing your boots also for riding as well as yard work then it goes without saying that they must be horse riding boots. But even if you only intend to use the boots for working around horses, the horse riding boots with toe protection have been tested and designed specifically to withstand pressure of a horse. In particular, one of the main properties and differences is that such horse riding boots are tested to withstand pressure on soft ground, which traditional steel toe cap shoes don't. This means that when you are in the field and get trodden on, the sole of the shoe won't give way.

Overall, toe protection in horse riding boots is becoming more popular, and certainly the next time your horsey friend quietly stamps on your foot, you will be glad of the protection (or wish that you had it!). Whilst perhaps less necessary for people who only ride and do not handle horses, it is something worth considering for the others who deal with horses on a regular basis.

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The Benefits of Using Training Aids When Lunging

Lunging your horse shouldn't be seen as a chore but looked upon as an opportunity to improve your horse. It is just as useful in the summer as thr winter, and when incorporated into your horse's exercise routine can keep him alert and prevent boredom. The lunging equipment and training aids used have advanced a lot in recent years, with many new training aids available to help you improve your horse and his way of going.

Training aids which go around the horse's hindquarters (of which there are several variations) can be useful to encourage a horse to step under, and use his hind legs more efficiently. These are often more suggestive training aids, rather than the more traditional ones, which often put a horse into position rather than encouraging him to find it for himself. Horse equipment which focuses on the propulsion of the hindquarters can often result in the horse working and stretching more over the back and neck, which is desirable whatever discipline you take part in. It follows the classical principle of motivating the "engine" of the horse first, in order to help him maintain self-carriage.

Side reins are a typical lunging training aid, used by many people, and can be effective at encouraging the horse to stretch down through the head and neck. They can be useful for a resistant and tense horse, but it is usually recommended that this type of horse equipment is minimally elastic, in order that the horse learns that relaxation and forwardness is correct. If the side reins are too giving, they mimic the human hand, and allow even during periods of resistance, which may cause confusion to the horse.

Traditional training aids such as the De-Gogue and Chambon are also aimed at encouraging a low and relaxed head carriage; however they are best used by experienced trainers, or under supervision from one, as they may panic an inexperienced horse. Again, they work on the principle that release of resistance by the horse means release of resistance from the training aid, allowing him to find the ideal head carriage. For training aids which work mainly on the poll and head area, it is important that the handler keeps the horse working through from behind, as it is easy to teach the horse to hold its head in a pleasing position, without working properly through its body.

Although the above is by no means a comprehensive guide to the wide array of horse equipment and training aids available, it details the most common ones used. Most unusual training aids will work on similar principles, although on obtaining any new piece of equipment, it is important to determine the exact action that it will have so that you know what you are subjecting your horse to. It is also crucial to get a second opinion from an experienced trainer or yard manager, and ensure that your horse is introduced to it gradually to avoid the risk of startling him, and hurting himself.

Of course, these pieces of equipment are no substitute for correct ridden work. However, finding out as much as you can about your chosen lunging training aid and using it appropriately should make your lunging more interesting, and give both you and your horse a long term goal to focus on.

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Tips When Buying a Horse

The majority of people in the Horse industry in Ireland are good honest people who can be trusted and will provide you with accurate information about the horse they are selling. There are however, as in any walk of life, those who are not so, and who's sole purpose is to make money. They will tell you anything to secure a sale, and so it is important that you take certain steps when buying a horse to ensure that you are not getting taken for a ride!!

1) Never buy a horse without seeing it. This is just asking for trouble. It may sound perfect over the phone, or look great in the advertisement but there are just too many things you don't know until you have seen the horse and watched it be ridden.

2) Take an experienced horsey person with you. They will know the signs of stable vices, temperament issues, old injuries and conditions. They may also be able to spot the rogue type traders mentioned above.

3) Before taking ownership of the horse make sure you get it vetted, and check on its identity. Get someone experienced to check its teeth to verify the age. It is not uncommon for people who have a horse for sale to advertise it as significantly younger than its actual age. Remember that there are so many horses for sale that there is no rush. And if you find a problem with you horse shortly after you get it you can return it to the vendor if it is nt as described. Follow these simple tips to give you a better chance of finding the horse of your dreams.

I have been involved in the horse industry in Ireland for many years I have dealt with many vendors, both good and bad. There are so many horses for sale in Ireland nowadays that you could spend months if not years trying to find the right animal for you. A bit of extra time spent searching will save you money and heartache in the long run. When you find a horse for sale that you think is right, exercise caution and you wont go far wrong!

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Courses and Horses

There are many equestrian courses available these days, from short one-day training courses to full time qualifications that are nationally recognised.

If you have not attended such a course before, or if you have been out of education for a long time, it can be difficult to know what is expected of you.

If attending a day course, your best bet is to ring up the institution at which it will take place and find out what the course entails. If there is any element of practical or yard work, it may be a good idea to wear jodhpurs or breeches and yard boots, or at least pack your riding gear in the car so you have it if necessary. Also, a pad of paper and pens will be essential for taking notes, as well as a highlighter to make important statements stand out. You may also need lunch, but you can check whether food is provided when you ring up, and aim to take a bottle of water and a snack to keep your concentration levels up!

With distance learning courses your riding gear won't be much use to you, although you may be expected to complete vocational tasks of your own accord and submit video evidence. Therefore you will still need access to good quality yard boots, jodhpurs, gloves and a hat as minimum personal protective equipment. In terms of any academic material, you will need to form an appropriate workspace at home where you can concentrate on reading through the course material without being disturbed. Again you will need pens and highlighters to make notes and emphasise points. A computer may also be a useful addition to your workspace in order to complete and store assignments as well as for research.

For full time qualifications, it depends largely on the course you are doing as to whether you will require riding gear or not. Often at degree level, you will only be expected to use riding gear for limited practical sessions, and so you may not need a full outfit including jodhpurs and riding jackets. However you may be expected to own minimum forms of protection for horse handling in educational sessions, such as a hat, gloves and yard boots. Some degree courses do offer riding and practical skills as optional modules. On a vocational course, full riding gear is usually required, as there are assessed riding and practical elements. Then obviously you must have a smart pair of jodhpurs or breeches, long leather riding boots or boots and gaiters, and a tidy riding jacket. A riding hat and gloves go without saying!

Academic equipment required for a full time course is similar to the others, obviously pens, paper and laptop. However you may also require a printer as most of your work will need to be physically handed in. Sorting out access to your institution's library is important, as it will be a vital resource for completing assignments and revision. If you plan to be a residential student, you must also ensure you have access to accommodation, and that you have the means to pay for it. This may entail applying for a student loan.

Your chosen educational establishment will give you much greater detail as to their expectations, but these very basic pointers should give you something to think about in terms of what riding gear and academic equipment you need to have prepared. For a long term commitment, you may find you need to invest in some new riding gear to make sure it is of a correct standard, fit and will last you the length of the course. Hopefully you will turn up prepared to learn and enjoy your course!

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Definitive Guide For Formulated Milk For Foals

If you are looking into strengthening your horse and enhancing their stamina, the trick is to begin early. Special formulated milk substitutes are available for foals particularly those that have been orphaned. Adult horses can sometimes reject their young and proper nourishment would not be delivered to the foal as a result this might even lead to the death of the foal. The need for supplementing the original nourishment can be done with the help of products such as ePro Foal Starter Plus. The milk is filled with energy giving nutrients like protein, fat, vitamins and minerals which complete the nutritional components of the mare's milk. Higher levels of protein are present in ePro?.

Protein contains amino acids that are needed by the tissues of the body to function well. For the horses to grow sturdy, 10 essential amino acids are required. ePro Foal Starter Plus contains all of the ten important amino acids for horse nutrition such as arginine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, threonine, histidine, valine and trypthopan. These amino acids cannot be formed easily in the usual meals of mares and foals, which is why it is necessary to take advantage of the promising effects which the product contains.

The milk substitute also contains antioxidants at adequate levels to sustain normal body growth and functions of the horse. The ePro? Foal Starter Plus is so innovative and promising; it even contains inulin, an organic sugar supplement produced in plants. Inulin is essential to produce enough helpful bacteria in the foal's digestive system to maintain equilibrium in the micro flora that helps lessen the chances for scouring.

Due to the highly digestible components which milk substitute contains, it works fast. It can be absorbed and utilized by the foal after various hours of consumption. Making use of the product would help you save money. It could ensure productivity and most of all the safety and health of growing foals. By utilizing the best products and available tools, the best products could be made.

You could make sure of reducing possible developmental risks later on which could hinder the chances of having champion breeds, by improving the quality of nutrients which your horses would consume.

Make sure to provide the foal fresh water daily and make sure that you provide soft hay at 2 weeks of age. Increase the creep feed gradually as the body weight increases per day.Horse Supplies Online specialise in providing thousands of horse products.

Horse Supplies Online specialise in providing thousands of horse products. They have a great stock of horse tack supplies, horse wormers, horse boots, vet supplies, horse supplements and much more all at fantastically discounted prices. They have a great range of vet products for cats and dogs as well! The company stocks all major brands of horse products. So, check out their great prices, fantastic range and awesome service on all major brands of horse supplies, and find out why http://www.horsesuppliesonline.com.au/ are the fastest growing equine supplies business in Australia.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Gibbins

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Article Submitted On: March 04, 2011

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Snake Bites in Horses

Horses are most commonly bitten by poisonous snakes, such as rattlesnakes, copperheads and coral snakes, in the spring and summer months. Horses at pasture are often bitten on the nose and head. Bites to the head and nose are true medical emergencies. These may cause swelling of the nose and surrounding tissue, making it difficult for the horse to breathe. Bites to the legs are less common and less serious, and usually occur during rides through snake-infested areas. In addition to swelling, the venom causes tissue destruction and blood clotting problems.

If Your Horse is Bitten by a Snake

1. If you see or hear snake when riding, move away from the area.
2. If you think your horse has been bitten, move away from the area, dismount and examine the legs for blood, swelling or puncture marks.
3. Slowly hand walk the horse back to the stable or trailer.
4. Keep the horse calm.

Treatment of Snake Bites

If you are unsure whether your horse was bitten, clip the hair on the legs and examine for dark oozing blood, puncture holes (1 or 2), swelling or discoloration of the wound area. If you find a snake bite after clipping away the hair, apply cold packs to the area. Do not apply ice directly to the skin, as this will freeze the skin and further damage the tissue. You may be initially unable to determine if your horse has been bitten. Observe your horse's legs or muzzle for 1-2 hours for signs of swelling, blood, or discoloration. Medical treatment involves the use of antibiotics to prevent infection at the bite site and corticosteroids to reduce inflammation.

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Information on the Western Saddle

The Western Saddle or as it's more popularly know as the "Cowboy" saddle is as its name suggests is most often used by cowboys. It is a saddle used by those who spend a lot of time in the saddle. It is designed to provide security & comfort so that the user can travel over long distances and rough terrain in relative ease. The western saddle gets its design from the saddles used by the Spanish vaqueros, the horse trainers and cattle drivers from Mexico and Southeast American regions. The western saddle was designed using the best parts of two other types of saddles namely -the Riding one, the Jousting one (la jenita) which for its comfort also provides very good control of the horse. The Western saddle is also good for beginner riding.

Also additional features are added like "the Horn". The horn allowed cowboys to control the cattle by tying on the neck of the animal and then wrapping the rope to the horn. Other parts of the western saddle include the Gullet, Concho, Latigo keeper, Dee ring, Latigo, Cinch ring, Cinch, Stirrup, Stirrup leather, Fender, Strings, Skirt, Rear Jockey, Jockey, Cantle, Seat and Pommel. In the western saddle there are about seven different sub classes and each is modified a little bit depending upon its task. The sub classes are - Roping, Cutting, Barrel racing, Endurance, Trail, Show and "Equitation" saddle.

The roping saddle is a heavier, sturdier saddle with a thicker horn, low cantle and a slick fork thus allowing the rider to dismount in a hurry if needed.

The Cutting saddle has wide swells and a deep seat allowing the rider to sit deep and to be secure through all abrupt stops and turns.

The Barrel racing saddle is a saddle that is light in weight with a high cantle and wide swells thus providing security to the rider but at the same time allowing the horse to do fast sprints and sharp turns.

The Endurance saddle has specifically been designed for the long rides at high speeds, thus ifs features include a wide and large seat to spread out the weight of the rider and to reduce pounds per square inch. An important feature that makes this saddle different from other saddles is that it has no horn. This saddle is used on long rides at fast speeds.

The Trail: is a comfort saddle designed with a deep well padded, thus being comfortable for the rider as well as the horse. Such a saddle is used long rides with slow speeds.

The Show saddle has a well padded deep seat thus allowing the rider to sit comfortably and give the appearance of a smooth ride. The Show saddle also has additional silver decorations on it.

The "Equitation" saddle is a show saddle with an especially deep seat that keeps the rider in place.

A good quality Western Saddle if properly maintained is built so as to last a persons whole lifetime and beyond.

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